The Film Index (Jul-Dec 1910)

THE FILM INDEX ii 31 lE^^E PROJECTION DEPARTMENT Problems of the Photoplay Operator Discussed and Questions Answered Edited by Will C. Smith i 'P 'r= II ir=ll ii ir= 1 Warren, Pa., writes: I have had trouble with my Power's No. 5 Machine. The left side of the picture is fogged. This machine has always been this way. Answer — As to your picture always being fogged, you might have a little oil on your lens or your condenser might need cleaning, or your cooling plate on the left hand side might extend out a little and in that way you would find that your picture would have a tendency to blur on our side. If such is the case I would advise you to file it down a little. Also, your lens may not be setting in the machine properly and that would have a tendency to make your picture blur on one side, or you might be working on a little angle. I could go on mentioning more things but in probability the cooling plate extends out too far. Would like to have more information and then I can get to it much better. Probably no fault of machine. Ground, Mt. Holly, N. J., writes: When I have a ground in my lamp (arc) how can I find out which arm is grounded? Answer — Attach a short wire to either binding post of an incadesent lamp socket. Throw in your operating switch, but do not light your lamp (arc). Put one end of your test lamp wire to one arm of your lamp (arc) near the carbon and the other to the rack bars, or base of your lamp, and if your test lamp lights the ground is in the other carbon arm. If it does not light try it on the other carbon arm the same way — by putting one end of the wire on the rack bars, or base of lamp, and the other on the carbon arm and if your test lamp lights the ground is at the first arm tried. If it lights on neither arm then the ground is elsewhere. Van, Worth, Ohio, writes, asking the cause of dark spot in the center of his curtain. Says he has tried moving his lamp (arc) backward and forward as well as the whole lamphouse. Says his carbons are set as they should be. Is using alternating current and an Inductor. Also wants to know what focal length condensing lenses should be used for 9x12 picture at 46 feet. Answer. — I think your trouble lies in the fact that you have your lower carbon just a little too far in advance of your upper carbon. This would cause the lower carbon to burn so that it interferes with the light, causing a shadow on your curtain. What you want on alternating current is to set your carbons so that they will be perpendicular, — that is, so that they are directly centered; so that the current in traveling around the carbon end will be evenly balanced. It is also possible that your condensing lenses are of a wrong focal length. What you need for that size picture at 46 feet is one 6% inch and one 7% inch condenser. Put the thick one towards the light and the thin one towards the screen. This rule, however, does not always carry out on a short distance. Some times you have to put the thin one (.7% in.) towards the light and the thick one (6% in.) towards the screen. Measure your condensers as follows: Hold the condenser with the flat side up to a piece of white paper pinned to the wall. Then bring it in and out, being sure to hold it direct with the paper, until the image on the window is sharp and distinct on paper. Then measure from the paper to the flat side of the condenser. This will give you the focus of the condenser. ILis more than likely though, that your main trouble is that your carbons are not set prop erly. Would like to hear further from you as to what success you have. Out of Focus. Hartford, Ct., writes: I am using an Edison One-pin Improved Exhibition Model Machine and sometimes I have a very fine picture that is good and sharp all over, then without touching the lens adjustment, the picture becomes dim, or I should say out of focus; then it becomes all right again. Then again the picture will be clear and bright on one portion and not in another. Answer. — I think the trouble lies either iu your aperture plate or your tension springs, or in both. Look carefully at your aperture plate, and if worn to any extent, get a new one. Set your tension springs so that they bear squarely on the tracks and then tighten so that they will stay. I am sure that your tension springs are loose and shift from one side to the other, causing the film to buckle slightly as it passes the aperture. Worn aperture plate tracks would have the same effect. Setting Bushings. Portland, Me., writes: Will you please tell me what is the proper way to set the eccentric bushings so that star and cam will run true? I have been told that there are several ways of setting them, but I would like to know the best way. Answer. — As you say, you have been told there are several ways of setting the eccentric bushings but you want to know the best way to set them. Would say that as to the setting of the eccentric bushings, the whole thing is to set them so as to eliminate the lost motion between the STAR and CAM, at the same time keeping the two shafts (star and cam shaft) exactly parallel to each other. The slots in the bushings bear the same relative position to the hole, so that if one slot is the same angle as the other the two shafts are parallel. W. A. McL., Oil City, writes: Would be pleased to have you answer the following questions throug your columns in the Film Index. 1. We use direct current. What would cause blue "ghost" or spot in center? 2. What, would cause a blue fringe around the high-lights and titles, and how can it be remedied? 3. The picture is not as clear at the bottom as it is at the top. What would' remedy that? I use Motiograph Machine. Answer. 1. To eliminate the blue "ghost" or spot in center of picture would advise to move lamp (arc) back far enough so that the spot just covers the aperture. Also, you might move your lamphouse back or forward. If this does not take it out, would suggest changing to different focal length condensers. You do not say what distance you are working from, or what size picture you have; therefore, cannot advise you as to size of condensers needed, but could recommend 7% inch focus condensers or one iy2 inch and one 8 inch focus condenser. 2. The blue fringe around the high lights and titles would indicate that your shutter is out of time with your picture. That is easily remedied as follows: Have the TWO wings just barely come together in exactly the center of the aperture just as intermittent sprocket starts to move and you will have it set right, and then your titles and high-lights as well as all the picture will come out all right. 3. To have your picture clear at bottom as well as top it is very essential that your screen be on the same angle as machine. I presume you are working from a balcony and that your picture is smaller at the top than at the bottom. In this case would recommend that you try and arrange your screen so that the bottom of screen would be brought nearer to the light and you will then get a clear picture at both top and bottom. . I think that if you follow these instructions you will have no more trouble. 0. A. N., of Lindsborg, Kan., writes: We have noticed the articles in the Film Index regarding questions answered and, as we are very eager to give our patrons the best for their money, we must understand the operation of machine thoroughly and your information will be appreciated. We use an Edison Improved Exhibition One-pin Machine. 1. Would like to know a remedy for picture jumping both sideways and up and down on the screen? 2. A remedy for film jumping off lower sprocket, causing the loss of loop? 3. Are the bushings for the intermittent sprocket made for adjustment? Answer. 1. The remedy for eliminating the jumping of film up and down on the screen, also sideways, is to adjust star and cam. To do this you loosen the set screws holding the bushings in the framing-carriage of the machine and use a screwdriver in the slots of the bushings, making very sure that the star and cam fit snug. Then tighten the set screws in framing-carriage holding bushings. This will eliminate the jumping of film up and down. If, after doing this, you find no good results, it is possible that the pins holding the intermittent sprocket are loose, causing lost motion in the sprocket, and in this case I would suggest new pins. The side movement of film is remedied by loosening the set screws holding the bushings and moving the bushing closer to the intermittent sprocket and then tighten the set screws. 2. Remedy for film jumping off lower sprocket. It might be that your lower sprocket is not in line with your intermittent sprocket, and if not, that would cause the film to jump off the lower sprocket; or the tension spring holding the lower roller on take-up feed sprocket may be weak, so that when a patch goes through it throws your film off. In this case I would recommend a heavier tension spring. 3. Bushings for the intermittent sprocket are always made for adjustment, and if adjusted properly you will always get a good steady picture. Would like to hear from you as to what success you have. J. A., New York City writes: If white plastered wall would make a good surface (or screen ) to project pictures on and what preparation he should put on it. Answer. — Any clean, white solid surface makes the best screen for the projection of pictures. The use of a white plastered will is very good. No preparation is necessary other than a good smooth, clean surface. Should any spots get on same they can very easily be removed by using (lightly) a piece of sandpaper around a block of wood. Tifen, Ohio, writes, how can he focus his Moving Picture before starting the machine. Answer. — Take a piece of paper the same thickness and width as film, having the paper a little ragged, and put it in the machine, closing the gate upon it just as you would on the film and focus until it stands out good, sharp and distinct,