International photographer (Jan-Dec 1934)

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My,1934 The INTERNATIONAL PHOTOGRATH E R Nine whatever equipment is needed. One device perfected is the labelling machine. The machine will label any size or shape bottle and, one label not being enough, it will apply as many as three on any single bottle. Another machine is a capping apparatus for screwing on caps. It is constructed so a cap is screwed on to the right tightness. There are a number of departmental research laboratories. Each bit of raw material is carefully analyzed for composition and purity before it is accepted from the manufacturer. The color pigments are studied under colorimeters, while the other chemicals and drugs are chemically analyzed or studied under a miscroscope. There is also a number of research laboratories whose purpose is to develop new formulas. In the perfume department there is row after row of shelves extending to the ceiling laden writh containers of perfumes and essential oils. The perfume materials are obtained from all over the world and they are shipped, as a rule, in metal containers, because of the risk of breakage in transit. The perfume oils very often cost as much as rive cents a drop. The containers are copper or copper lined for the attar of Roses and citrus oils, while the other oils are contained in aluminum and tin bottles. When they arrive they are elaborately sealed and covered with government tax stamps. As a rule the essential oils are used in compounding the makeup ; however at times the synthetic oils must be used. When a crop fails or the essential oils are of poor quality, then the laboratory-made perfume oil is used. For blending and matching in order to maintain a standardized powder and make-up color, both the colorimeter and artificial daylight apparatus is used. The daylight apparatus was specially made by Western Electric and gives an unvarying light that permits easy matching by the visual method. The tests are conducted in a dark room. In their hair department, under the guidance of Perc and Ern Westmore, is made the various wigs and other hair creations used in the motion picture. They have hair in all shades and textures from all parts of the world. Usually the hair used in wigs is imported from the peasants of Europe, many peasant women earning a considerable income growing hair. Certain kinds of hair costs Max Factor as much as fifteen dollars an ounce ; it is kept in rows of drawers in preservatives. The various period productions where wigs are used are contracted for by Max Factor. He maintains a staff whose purpose is to authentically make the hair creation to match in both style and personality in keeping with the period in which the picture is set. When I need a wig Max Factor will make it. In 1908, Max Factor started in business in Los Angeles. At that time he had a small establishment that manufactured make-up for both society and the motion picture. Max Factor when only a ten year old boy in Russia, served as an apprentice to a Doctor. In this connection with the Doctor he acquired a knowledge of chemistrv which he improved with the passing years. When fourteen, he became associated with an operatic theatrical troupe. With this troupe he travelled everywhere, finally to St. Louis, where he made make-up material and perfume. Shortly thereafter he went to Los Angeles. In 1908, make-up for the motion picture, was of a pinkish color. This make-up in connection with the then used Orthochromatic film emulsion gave a chalky white face on the screen. Also the heroes and heroines accentuated their lips and eyebrows with heavy colors. The accepted hero then usually had cupid bow lips. As the art and technic of the motion picture improved, Max Factor was in step with the improvement. His close Late portraits of Richard Dix in a character pose from his latest production, RKORadio picture drama, "His Greatest Gamble." Edna May Oliver, age 86, 1929 ()an. 28, 1932), and as she portrays the character of Maude in RKO Radio production, "We're Rich Again." association with the industry made possible the present standard panchromatic colors. The panchromatic make-up used today in the motion picture was introduced subsequent to a series of experiments with the Eastman Panchromatic emulsion, held at the Warner Brothers Studio, in February, 1928. At that time a related standard between Mazda illumination, make-up, and the panchromatic emulsion was studied. Very shortly thereafter the Panchromatic make-up color was adopted. Before the introduction of the standardized panchromatic make-up color, Max Factor was confronted with a number of problems. His make-up, even though visually appearing to be the natural flesh colors, must have sufficient color balance for the panchromatic emulsion. That is because the panchromatic film does not "see" or record the colors as the human eye sees them. It is the problem of make-up to bring the photographic recording to the visual balance. That problem would be simple if a second situation did not present itself, that is, the psychological aspect. A suitable color balance in make-up for a correct photographic recording would result in a muddy-brown make-up color. If two players were doing a heavy scene and had to look at each other with undesirable or unnatural brown colors on their faces, a certain emotional response would be inhibited. Max Factor had to incorporate enough of the photographic colors in his make-up and still hold the colors of the make-up in the range of natural flesh colors. Also the unguent form in collapsible tubes was adapted, because it permitted easier and thinner application. This soft form was a distinct advantage over the older stick form which was either too hard in cold weather or would melt in hot weather. Too, unsanitary open stick gathered dirt. Through the enterprise of the Max Factor Company, the application of make-up has been standardized. Their research laboratories solve whatever problems arise. Please mention The International Photographer when corresponding with advertisers.