Motion Picture Magazine (Feb-Jul 1927)

Fashions An Open Letter to a Country Cousin WELL, Patsy, what will you have first ? Studio gossip or spring Styles ? . . . I thought so ! First, then, I'll give you a resume of all recent developments. . . . The silhouette, of course, remains slim and straight, but 1927's models are easily discerned by these very new points. LINES: All kinds of lines — horizontal, diagonal, triangular, scallops, uneven hem lines, geometric effects and sectional cut effects. TUCKS, PLEATS, APPLIQUE BAXDS, ETC.: These are the means used to obtain the desired lines mentioned above and are VERY IMPORTANT. All pf the newest spring models show either fine or wide PLEATS (the two-inch box pleat appearing most frequently), TUCKS either in close, fine groups or in wide effects, or APPLIED BAXDS to give the effect of a voke or tucks. BOWS AXD YOKES: Bows of all kinds . . . large, small, single or in groups are very, very, prominently displayed on coats, sports and town frocks and evening ns. They appear in velvet or satin, in grosgrain, or in self material; at the neck, hip, or in groups down the front. . . . Yionnet features a large, soft bow on the left shoulder — Patou and Paquin show them tied beside a square neck or in rakish effects on coat collars and in huge loops on one hip. The possibilities are endless. YOKES appear often on both dresses and coats and are sometimes seen on both blouse and skirt. They are indicated by tucks, stitching, or applique bands. Other important features are : Skirt fulness all gathered in one place, either at the side or front ; tight, molded hips with bloused backs ; draped girdles, and up-in and Studio Gossip By GRACE CORSON AX AUTHENTIC SUMMARY OF THE NEWEST IN FROCKS, HATS, LINES AND MATERIALS FOR THE COMING SEASON front effects. The bolero also makes its appearance, in both day and evening frocks, and COLLARS are either smaller (on coats) or entirely absent. SUITS will have their usual spring popularity and the vintage may be known by the material used — I'll come to that in a minute. EYEXIXG GOWNS show a decided return of the low-cut back. The cut may be oval or Y-shaped. These gowns are oftenest of fringe or lace. . . . Short fringe is very popular and is used in diagonal effects, etc. More white, DULL white, is seen than any color, and is by far the smartest choice. .MATERIALS: Of all materials for coats and suits, TWEEDS and JERSEYS head the list. These are very, very smart for both town and country wear. There are, besides, the new novelty woolens. One kind, "chiffon" wool, is almost as sheer and transparent as silk ; wool cashmere, brushed kasha, and "frisca." The new tweeds differ from the old in their increasing subtlety : odd designs, basket weaves, color effects and more generally sophisticated air. Why not? Are they not accepted for town wear, not merely for the country ? In SUITS these tweeds are very popular, tho the well-tailored "oxford" suit will always have its place. With suits this spring, not onlv blouses but SWEATERS will be worn'. SWEATERS have developed so rapidly that they are no longer worn solely for sports. The newest ones are of so soft and delicate a weave and have such odd and varied neck-lines that they are far smarter under the suit than the usual blouse. One instance of the odd turn affairs have taken is the sweater woven of fine wool and white cotton string ! Wool jersey is also used for suit blouses. . . . So much for wool materials In silks the smartest materials are : CREPE-BACK SATIX. PRIXTED and WOYEX silks, and crepe de Chine, crepe roman and chiffon, as always. Of them all, crepe-back satin i in the lead, due, no doubt, to its adaptability to the mode for geometric effects, applied bands, tucks, etc.. by merely combining the dull and bright sides. . . . Chanel has had great success with this satin in her models pour Ic sport. In printed silks this season's designs are easily distinguished from last year's by the absence of huge, sprawling, multicolored effects and the substitution; instead, of far smaller, more compact, and REGULAR designs in either one basic color on white, or two-toned effects. FURS are used more sparingly and trimmings are of the flat, short-haired novelty furs, clipped, dyed, and worked in patterns. ( Doubtless, could we but know their humble origin, we'd indignantly refuse to wear them at all!) Whole fox skins appear occasionally as an accessory to the tailleur. (Continued on pane 108) 59