Movie Makers (Jan-Dec 1952)

Record Details:

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105 Photographs by Herbert D. Shumway, ACL that the area surrounded by the wire is exactly the area photographed by the camera when used with the correct Portra lens. Many cameramen call these frames "focal frames," for the logical reason that they actually do frame the area which is in focus. By glancing at Fig. 2 you can see that any one of these frames may be put quickly in filming position simply by inserting it into an opening in the camera baseboard. -Now that you have a general idea of the what and how of these frames, let's find out next how to build them. To begin construction, go back to the wooden camera baseboard which you made in Part I. On this baseboard construct an opening to accept the wooden strips onto which the wire focal frames will later be fastened. A look at Fig. 2 will give you an idea of how to do this. First nail wooden cleats along the sides of the baseboard so that they will rest against the edges of the 1 inch wide, ^4 inch thick wooden strip onto which the frame will be fastened. Next nail a third cleat across the width of the baseboard directly behind these two cleats to prevent the focal frame base from sliding backward. Finally fasten a piece of wood across the tops of these three cleats to hold the focal frame base in place. Now the focal frame base should slide in and out of this opening with ease. Should any frame base bind as it is inserted, you must sand it down to the , i^—H proper fit. When making this opening, be certain that the center line of the focal frame base will be aligned with the center line of the camera baseboard. This is most important. Remember in Part I how we stressed that the camera should be mounted parallel to the baseboard edges, with its lens directly above the baseboard center line? The importance of this exact positioning should now be readily apparent, for it greatly simplifies centering the focal frames with respect to the camera. Now we come to the construction of the wire focal frames — really a simple task in spite of the careful measurements required. Wire from metal coat hangers is ideal for these frames. For cutting the wire, either wire cutters or a small hacksaw will work. For bending the wire, try a pair of pliers; although the use of a hammer and a vise will enable you to do a neater job. To make a wire frame for any particular field size, consult Fig. 2 and the Table of FIG. 3: On target chart (left) outer line shows frame size, middle line field size filmed. Inner line, diagonals aid centering. FIG .4: For centering test, strap frame to base with rubberband, tape target to frame and shoot test footage. Repeat until right. Focal Frame Specifications. They will tell you the frame size (A-B) best suited to covering that area (C-D), the distance (F) to mount the frame from the supplementary lens, and the correct supplementary lens to use with that frame. Notice in the table that for any given field size the frame is made % to 1 inch larger in each dimension. This allowance is made to prevent the frame from appearing in the picture due to slight errors in construction or to subsequent accidental bending of the frame. Here's an important construction hint: When cutting the wire for the frame, be sure to leave enough extra wire for connecting the frame to the focal frame baseboard. Fig. 2 shows clearly how this is done. No dimensions are given for the height of this support, since it will vary for different sized frames and different makes of cameras. The important thing to remember in calculating this height is that the center of the focal frame should be at exactly the same height ( HH ) as the center of the camera lens ( H ) . Now with one wire frame completed, the final job is to fasten it permanently to its focal frame baseboard (a 1 inch wide, ^4 mch thick strip of wood) so that the frame will exactly surround the area photographed by the camera. If your camera is a magazine loading job, THE BEAUTY OF BUTTERFLIES in a field of summer daisies! These and other wonders of the world around us are yours with Portra lenses — and patience.