Movie Makers (Jan-Dec 1952)

no PUT ORDER IN YOUR EDITING An 8mm. amateur, winner of three Best-in-Show, outlines his editing system in a suitcase IN BOTH the literature and the language of our hobby there seem to be two different terms describing its practitioners. These terms are ( 1 ) movie taker and (2) movie maker. Some see these terms as synonymous and interchangeable. But with this bit of semantics I cannot agree. For to me there is far more to filming than simply the picture FIG. 1: Made of wood, this suitcase editor measures 37 by 18V2 by 10 inches and weighs, fully loaded, less than thirty pounds. FIG. 2: One side of suitcase folds down to position action editor and rewinds on a table top ready for the author's editing. FIG. 3: Top-hinging of the 85 hole film file board permits it to be lifted to give access to general storage space at rear. MILTON H. BOLENDER taking. The hobby of movie making — as this name implies — is essentially a creative process. And, again to me, editing is an important part of that process. It is because of this, perhaps, that I designed and built the editing unit described in this discussion. Externally it is designed like a suitcase, with a handle on top for easy carrying (see Fig. 1). Internally it provides storage and working space for films, film cleaner, spare reels, extra film cement, leader film, accessories and an action editor and splicer (see Fig. 2). When not in use, it may be locked and stored in a closet. DIMENSIONS AND DESIGN The unit is simple to make and inexpensive. The outside dimensions in inches are as follows: height, 18%; length, 37; width, 10. Fully loaded it weighs less than thirty pounds. The sides, ends, top, bottom and inner shelf are made of % inch white pine. The partitions inside are of ^4 inch plywood. The board used for the film file is made of two pieces of ^ inch plywood. One has the holes bored in it for holding the coiled strips of film; the other is tightly glued face to face to this to form a bottom for the holes. This assembly is mounted in an inclined position (for easy accessibility to the film strips) and is hinged to the backboard. This permits the film file board to be lifted up and thus give access to a compartment underneath for storage of empty reels, cans, film and other accessories (see Fig. 3). The holes in the film file board (for 8mm. film in my model) are l1/^ inches in diameter and ^ inch deep. There are eighty-five holes in the board, each one with a number stenciled at the bottom edge. It is important that the inside edge of these holes be smoothly sanded and polished to prevent film scratches. The side which opens out is hinged at the bottom edge. When open it serves as an editing table, and upon it is mounted, with machine screws, my Bell & Howell editor. When this side is closed, the editor is encased inside and the entire unit is one single compact piece of equipment. The handle for carrying is made of % inch white pine and is attached by wood screws and glue. An editing unit of this type has innumerable advantages. The most important, of course, is that it permits easy and smooth editing with little effort. It keeps all materials pertaining to editing in one place. This prevents articles from becoming misplaced and also prevents cluttering up the house. With it you will label and index your films and keep them in a specified place so you know where to find them when you want them. Above all, it keeps your films clean and orderly. THE EDITING OPERATIONS When your films arrive back from processing, a good thing to do first is to run them through the viewer and eliminate all footage that is definitely of no value — fogged footage at the start, laboratory perforation and (on 8mm. rolls) the change-over in the middle. Splice all picture footage onto a large reel, and then project it several times in search of edge fog, [Continued on page 125]