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Photographs by Herbert D. Shumway, ACL
FIG. 1: Here are the tools and the materials to turn out the five wooden tanks. Lumber must be machine-cut to exact dimensions.
SNUG JOINTS ESSENTIAL
With a putty knife smear one of the S1/^ inch long end pieces of pine with a uniformly thin layer of Perniatex along one of its % inch wide surfaces. Lay this smeared surface flush against one end of the painted surface of a plywood sheet. Then screw the plywood sheet to the pine end piece with % inch long wood screws placed in each of the pre-drilled holes. Be sure that this and all subsequent joints are made very snug by setting all screws very tightly. (Here you will find that a screwdriver fitting placed in a bit brace will make the job of screw setting much easier. ) After the base has been similarly smeared and screwed into position, set the remaining 8% inch long end pieces into place. Make certain that all joints between base and end pieces are also smeared with Permatex; and. if it is necessary to make these joints fit more snugly, fasten them together with a wood screw.
Before fastening the second side of the tank in place, wipe off all excess Permatex which may have squeezed out along the inner tank joints by the pressure of assembling. Now smear a layer of Permatex along the % inch wide surfaces of the base and end pieces which will be joined to the second plywood tank side. Then lay the plywood sheet in position with its painted side against the Permatex-smeared surfaces and screw firmly in place as illustrated in Fig. 4. Finally, with an old rag carefully wipe off all Permatex which may have oozed out along both the inner and outer joints of the tank. Fig. 5 shows this operation. A soft rag wrapped about the end of a long screwdriver will make it easier to reach the inner joints for cleaning.
Now set your tanks aside for several days to allow the Permatex to dry thoroughly. Then complete the last step of tank construction by painting all inner joints and unpainted outer surfaces with two coats of AcidCausticbond Seal Coat paint. Unpainted outer surfaces should, of course, be primed first. Fig. 6 illustrates this procedure. When the last coat has dried thoroughly, label each tank with the name of the solution it is to contain. These are: PREHARDENER, DEVELOPER. BLEACH, CLEARING BATH, and FIXER.
THE WASH-WATER TANK For washing purposes you will need one extra tank. Excellent for this is a discarded automobile battery case of the long narrow type (about lS1/^ inches long and 4 inches wide) which you can buy cheaply at any automobile junk yard. After draining it of all battery acid, dismantle it by first scraping away the sealing tar around
FIG. 2: First step in readying tanks is to apply acid and alkali resistant paint 1o one side of plywood sheets, all sides of pine units.
FIG. 3: Permatex, a joint-sealing compound, is smeared on base and end pieces, then one side is screwed on. Pre-drill holes.
FiG. 4: Screws should be set up with maximum tightness to assure leak-proof joints. A brace and screwdriver bit will help this job.