Photoplay (Jan-Jun 1927)

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oila, Antoine, By Agnes Smith IT isn't Mr. Antoine, nor yet Monsieur Antoine. It is just Antoine. And that is fame. Antoine is one of the reasons why girls leave home to go to Paris. The other reason, of course, is to get a di\-orce. In settling domestic situations or in arranging coiffures, Paris is still the center of civilization. This elegant young Frenchrrian came to New York for a brief but hectic visit to establish a salon at Saks Fifth A\enue. The pilgrimage was in the nature of a missionary expedition. Antoine de scended upon New York like an evangelist to set up an outpost of True Culture among the heathen. Don't laugh. Antoine really knows his business. I watched him work. I saw him turn women into ladies and little cuties into charming girls. I also saw him let a woman walk out of his salon because she insisted on a tight frizz instead of a soft curl. I asked him what was wrong with most American bobs. And he answered "Pas de raffinemenl." In your language — and mine — that means "no refinement." The secret of Antoine's bobs is simplicity and elegance. When bobbed hair was in its infancy, it was enough merely to have the hair short. The bob was only a fad and not a coiffure. If vou were young and slim, your bob became you. If you were older and stouter, the square, curly bob made you look hoydenish and grotesque. Curiously enough, Antoine's bobs give The exotic bob — extreme but elegant. For the slender face -< \ ■ e Some little tips from Paris's foremost head-worker the effect of long hair — or rather, of plenty of hair. But, as a matter of fact, most of the hair is shorn from the head before the curling process begins. Antoine, with his little safety razor blade, literally models the hair to the shape of your head. Briefly, here is the principle of the new bob. The hair is cut short in the back. The neckline which, in une.x pert hands, usually makes Antoine's favor a woman's neck look like ite bob — this a second baseman's, is one illustrating shaped into a delicate, the covered ear fringe-like bang. The hair is thinned back of the ears — most hairdressers leave it too long and too hea\'y. Antoine leaves the front and the sides of the hair long. These strands of hair are given a soft curl and swirled back. For an evening coiffure, Antoine catches these long hairs and makes them into soft curls, high on the back of the head. Antoine thinks that the hairdresser who makes the back of a woman's head look flat ought to be lynched. He didn't say so outright, but he groped around in a haze of mixed French and English to express ^ the same idea. Of course, Antoine's bobs are as varied as the individuals whom he serves. His price, incidentally, is a measly, insignificant ten dollars, in spite of the rumors that credit him with receiving one hundred and Thefull, rounded fifty dollars every time back of head and he picks up a curling soft wave iron. Antoine doesn't like this hair-cut, although it made Colleen Moore famous. He says it gives the face a common expression. Also it is too heavy for grace Antoine does like this bob — the property of Billie Dove. The hair is waved softly and the general lines are good. Beware of harsh lines and tight curls 46