Picture Play Magazine (Mar-Jul 1929)

73 of Make-up stars, and has developed a new personality for some this article he discusses his work and tells how to best features. Tailed siderably since the old days, since, indeed, the use of panchromatic film, which catches colors much more vividly than the old type of film. For instance, panchromatic makes bright-red lips come out on the screen as a violent, black line which looks unnatural and leaps out from the face. The coloring has to be toned down. Max Factor tries very hard to induce actresses to use brown lip salve, a little darker than the tan grease paint on their cheeks ; but stars are reluctant to use it. They wish to look pretty on the set ; who wants brown lips ? For the same reason, they are unwilling to use gray grease paint instead of brown, which, according to Mr. Factor, is a much better shade for the camera. Mr. Factor's son-in-law evolved a new gold paint for professional use. Oriental dancers are frequently called upon to gild or bronze themselves all over. This has always been a precarious undertaking, because the pores were thereby closed, a condition which, if prolonged, causes death. Now there is a gilding which is porous and does not shut the air off from the skin. Max Factor's lifetime of experience in this work began when he was eight years old. At that age he was apprenticed to a wigmaker in his native Russia. Americans have no idea what an apprenticeship, in the European manner, really Crude make-up was formerly Clara Bow's misfortune, before Max Factor taught her the right way. means. To Max it meant that for five years he worked constantly at the wigmaker's long, drudging hours, and no pay. His compensation consisted of the knowledge of the trade which he was acquiring. At the end of five years, he was given a new pair of shoes as a bonus. That was all. But his training was thorough. It was much more than merely learning to make wigs. It included everything one would normally learn in a beauty parlor about cosmetics, and so on. He gradually rose to success in his na Irene Rich is another who wisely consulted the wizard. tive country. He became official cosmetician for the Russian Imperial Opera. He was called upon frequently by ladies of the court. And it was only due to an impending war that he finally left his native country. He had served the compulsory two years in the army, and had had enough of military life. Through his contact with court circles, he learned that war with Japan was a certainty, not many years in the future. So he came to America. With a French partner he went to St. Louis in 1904, where the World's Fair was being held. Max Factor had a large stock of perfumes and cosmetics, and his French partner absconded with it all, leaving the young Russian immigrant all but penniless. And that is when he went to Hollywood, where the film industry was just taking root. • Movies seemed a good field for his talents. Since he was expert in a profession which had few experts at that time, he had no difficulty in making studio connections. And now, girls, if you've been waiting for a little advice as to your own make-up, here is what this authority has to say: The first principle of make-up, for ordinary use, is that it seem as natural as possible. This is an obvious statement, but it requires only a glance around to realize that there are many women who need such an admonition. Continued on page 117