Talking Screen (Sep-Oct 1930)

Just Your Style — and Hollywood's buttons down the front added "swank" to this costume that any girl with a flair for the picturesque would love to copy for her own wardrobe. Pajamas are very easy to make, even if you don't sew a great deal. Some of the newest clever features include godets set into the trousers to add perkiness; deep fitted yokes that hug the hips; blouses with neckerchiefs; and bolero effects — if not actually a separate bolero. Futuristic decorations are used lavishly; and, in tlie lounging or cotton sleeping pajamas, gay colors are combined recklessly. Buttons, which promise to be very popular on all types of costumes this Fall, are used to trim pajamas. Oh, you can just let your imaginations run riot when you plan your sleeping-and-lounging togs! For night wear, you may choose bright English print, broadcloth, fine handkerchief linen, or some rayon mixture such as milanese. All are inexpensive, yet as pretty as they are practical. If you are ultra-modern you may even wear night-shorts ! And have you seen the new Argentine pajamas, with each circular trouser leg measuring three yards around the bottom? They look like bouffant skirts when one is not moving about. Of course, they obviously can only be used for lounging. IT'S terrible smart right now to have an attractive little bed-jacket to match your nightgown, just to slip on when you want to read in bed. The ensemble idea is often carried into the negligee, too, which may be of satin or heavy crepe like the gown, and with trimming and general silhouette to correspond. More often, however, we prefer a negligee which "goes with" everything in our wardrobe and doesn't seem to belong especially to any one piece. Satin is by far the most popular material, and is usually combined with lace. The new negligees feature the silhouette styling; so if your last year's model is good for another season, why not fit it very definitely to the figure? If it has the panel sleeves of georgette, which have so long been popular, you might remove them and use this material for one of the newer little capes that are proving as flattering on lingerie as on day-time frocks — and just as smart. For the first time in years maribou and ostrich feather trimming is almost entirely discarded, having been replaced by lace and French flowers. Real alenqon lace leads by a vast margin because of its beauty, durability, and economy. It comes in widths ranging from one and a half to thirty-six inches, and in price from |1.50 to $35. Imitation alenqon, which costs approximately a third as much as the hand-run, can seldom be diffeientiated from the "real," .save at close range. Of late, laces have tended toward the dark shades ; but now the tendency is toward the light because we're wearing so many sheer white and pastel tuck-in blouses with our suits, and dark lace shows through unoleasingly. Lace with a grayish cast is being exploited by the leading lingerie manufacturers this sea.son. In addition to alengon, there is the Breton lace, which starts at fifteen cents a yard, and is also very popular. {^Continued from page 7} NO longer are "loaded" silks used. The pure-dye, which contains no tin, is no longer more expensive than the other ; and the softer silks are far lovelier for lingerie. A good quality "stands up" under many launderings without losing any of its perkiness. You can buy it for an average of $2 a yard — often on sale for less. Ninon, from which some of the most beautiful imported lingerie is made, is around $4 a yard. Triple voile, even more expensive, is less popular than the other materials because it is so very sheer. French flowers range in price from five cents apiece to $3 or so a small spray Nothing so enhances the fragility of blond beauty as the shade of flesh pink which June Clyde features in this maribou trimmed negligee. If you can learn to make them (and the millinery courses given in high schools these days always include this instruction) you'll be very fortunate. These flowers are the daintiest touch imaginable for lovely lingerie. COSTUME slips and teddies are a dream this year. They are decidedly of the princess type and invariably feature the extremely low back — if any ! Sometimes the tops resemble overalls, with cute little fitted bibs in front and straps in back. These garments all have to be hooked or buttoned; for the new fashions have completely ruled out the "slip on" type of undies. The foundation garment worn beneath the molded evening gowns is just like another skin! Often they are fashioned of glove silk, which is one of the most popular of all the lingerie fabrics, as well as the most practical. It really hugs the figure more closely than any other material, and launders beautifully. Lace is used lavishly on glove silk garments now, just as on other kinds. All-in-one garments are ever so popular now that smartly gowned girls want to preserve their slimness with a minimum of undies. Much in demand is the fitted slip with attached panties and a brassier top, which means only one pair of shoulder straps and one thickness around the waist. Incidentally, the new shoulder straps are of inch-wide sun-tan net footing, which is only ten cents a yard, but wears well and is practically invisible. Little short petticoats are leaping back into the fashion parade after years of absence. Like the popular panties, they have snug fitted hips and circular flares, or godets in the back to give the necessary fullness. The brassier-and-shorts combination is still in demand, especially for sport wear. They are made of gay cotton prints, or — for dressier occasions — of pastel silk and lace. HEN you see attractive undies, such as the satin teddies worn by June Clyde in Tanned Legs, you are viewing Hollywood's own styles. The B. H. Dyas Company, our largest and best department store, usually supplies the very intimate undies worn in pictures, though many of the negligees and pajamas, and a few of the other lingerie pieces aie designed in the studios themselves. The Dyas buyer tells me that the most popular shades in undies, in order of their choice, are: flesh, peach, blue, orchid, and the newer blush tint which promises to be a "first choice." Green also seems well liked. Of course white and ivory are standard. Don't you sometimes wish you could keep ■ on wearing some pretty party frock indefinitely, but realize it is too short, or hopelessly out of date? Why not make undies of it? Dark shades combine beautifully to make your lounging pajamas or robe, while the pastel colors can be turned into nighties, teddies, or dancettes. Printed chiffons are particularly dainty. A bit of lace, hemstitching, a yoke of cotton net — which is anofher very popular new trimming — pin-tucking, hand embroideiy, and French flowers all help transform a discarded frock into dainty lingerie. Of course you know that hand-made undies are the most expensive of all to buy ! NEXT MONTH Advance Fall style tips. The answer to: what shades will be worn? What materials will prove most popular? What lines will lead? Will hats have brims? Will blouses tuck in? Will skirts be long? And dozens of other hints that will help you choose the smartest Fall and Winter wardrobe in down, 'for the least possible money. 17