Talking Screen (Sep-Oct 1930)

/ JUST YOUR STYLE AND HOLLYWOOD'S The fall fashion parade has already begun, and the gowns and suits Hollywood chooses can be made at home at very little cost if you follow this article carefully By DOROTHEA HAWLEY CARTWRIGHT THERE is real excitement in planning a new Fall wardrobe when colors, fabrics, and silhouette have undergone such rapid and radical changes as they have during the last few months. Unless we plan quite carefully, we're apt to find ourselves exceeding our clothes budget long before we've made all our necessary purchases — and others not precisely necessary, but oh how satisfying! The first rule in clothes economy is to select a definite color scheme — (J will persist in bringing that up on every possible occasion, won't I!) — and buying or making every individual garment to match or harmonize. What lovely new shades we have this year. Black leads, as always, but by a much smaller margin than usual. It is very smart, and is the least apt to be "dated" of any color. Next in importance this season is brown, in rich reddish tones. Green follows, in several fascinating new shades, with wine reds almost equally in evidence. Those of you who like blue will find a wonderful range of hues from which to make your selections. For evening, white, black, and pastel shades with a dusty overtone are still as popular as they have been during the Summer months, with a new emphasis on reds. SUCH interesting fabrics are emerging from exclusive fashion centers for Fall and Winter wear. Velvet which underwent a partial eclipse for a period, is coming back as a strong favorite for suits of the dressmaker type, as well as for afternoon gowns. An original manner of handling this fabric is the combining of plain velvet with pannt — a treatment suggestive of the once popular crepe-back satin used with both surfaces. Lace, which is taking a very definite place in the fashion parade, is used rather lavishly on velvet afternoon gowns. For street and office wear thin woolens almost exclude all other fabrics. Quite the most delightful material I've seen is the new "twin tweed" — two weights of matching cloth, the lighter for the dress or suit, the heavier for a topcoat. Smart? Well, rather! This material costs about $8 a yard, and is 54 inches wide. I cannot imagine a more stunning Fall outfit than one made from this twin tweed, which fortunately comes in all the most exciting new shades. Such an ensemble would be infinitely practical, yet economical. Other new fabrics sponsored for Fall and Winter are Kashmirana, which is an Angora tweed suitable for topcoats; Cassia, also quite heavy; the famous Brameena tweeds, which are closely woven, and obtainable in a very large variety of shades and weaves ; and Krepetweed, which has a crepy finish. Of course there are many other similar fabrics, too; but these are representative and are among the newest and best obtainable. Fortunately, their price is not prohibitive for the girl who can make her own wardrobe. To purchase such an outfit would be rather costly for the average girl. Now that the dressmaker type of garment is particularly smart, the girl who can sew is doubly lucky. Among other Fall materials in obvious demand are duvetyn, velveteen, suede and chiflfon cashmeres, and broadcloth. [Continued on page 88} Wool crepe is an especially favored material for fall suits this year. June Collyer, Paramount player, selects this model which features the bow tied in the front. The crepe blouse has the always flattering draped neckline.