Talking Screen (Sep-Oct 1930)

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Just Your Style and Hollywood's {^Continued from page 7} EVENING fabrics are interesting, too. Velvets, almost as sheer as chiffon, are very popular. Chiffon with velvet or satin figures is newer still. Very thin lame is being shown widely, while crepe romaine is indicated as the fashion leader. Satin is back for evening wear. Very low backs continue in high favor, though they are often filled in with an almost imperceptible layer of flesh-colored net which keeps the shoulders in place. Evening gowns are very stately this season, with a strong Grecian influence. Fullness is from the knees, generally. Hips are invariably snugly fitted. While matching jacket are still being shown for evening, the tendency is strongly toward the long evening coat which follows the lines of the gown. The Fall jackets are heavily trimmed in fox fur, and emphasize feminine luxuriousness. For street and spectator sport wear, fourpieced ensembles are of primary importance. They consist of a skirt, blouse, fitted jacket, and topcoat. Blouses are of silk, jersey, or silk pique. The smart new sweaters simulate blouses in line and decoration, with the same type of lingerie details. You may wear your blouse inside your skirt, or out; but if you prefer the latter, the natural waistline must be indicated by a belt, or by the cut of the blouse. ^UITE the smartness innovation in Fall ^ fashions is the dress-coat, a cleverly tailored woolen or heavy crepe gown on semi-fitted lines, greatly resembling a wrap — particularly when a fur collar or scarf is added. Circular skirts, pleats, pepluras, and a few godets are employed, but the trim, tailored impression is never marred by their inclusion. This year's fashions will be outstanding by reason of sleeve and neck details, as well as by the use of vivid embroidery and beading. There is a strong Russian influence noted in many of the new daytime costumes. The bell sleeve is quite popular, while signs point rather markedly toward the leg-o'-muttons of our mothers' day. Many of the Fall sleeves are of three-quarter length, and are worn with long gloves. The double sleeve — one wrist length, the other — of flared cut — several inches shorter — is seen not only on numerous dresses, but on suits and coats as well. Necklines are especially flattering this year with their soft front-or-back cowl effects, draped lines, or soft lingerie details. Capelets continue in high favor for the present, though interest in them is gradually on the wane. Just now boleros are receiving most of fashion's attention. Every type of garment, from evening gown to "best" coat, actually has a bolero, or at least simulates one. Likewise, all types of garments emphasize bloused treatments. Peplums, ruffles, pleats, and fringe are being featured more prominently this year than last. THIS year's coats are decidedly fitted to the figure, and the tendency is toward colors rather than black. Green and Brown are especially popular. Very interesting are the new fur shawl collars of galyak, lapin, or other flat furs. Sealine, Hudson seal. Persian lamb, caracul, and pony are other very good furs this season, with long-haired types — especially fox — again enjoying a definite place in fashion's favor. For evening there is a new fad for lapin jackets dyed in pastel shades, as well as in brilliant red or green, to match or harmonize with your gown. Unless you can aflford to be extravagant, I'd not buy one of these little wraps, however, as they are obviously a passing fancy. Lapin itself should be chosen cautiously; for while it's "lapin" when it's fashionable, it s plain "rabbit" when it's out Evening wraps are long, and Dorothy McNnlty, M-G-M player, chooses royal blue velvet for her favorite cape. White ermine makes a luxurious standing collar. of date! For sport wear it will probably continue in high favor; for dressy occasions, its popularity may be short-lived. Hats! How we girls adore them! EflForts to revive the brim have not been wholly successful with the smartest women. Paris and Hollywood decree that this Fall we'll all be wearing our hats from one to five inchef-.off the forehead — and that means that sooner or later the ancient female weapon — the hatpin— is likely to reappear ! There will be brims on most of the hats — but they'll turn back from the face. Some of the new chapeaux have brims over one eye. The tendency is toward shallow crowns again; and feather trimming is tr^'ing to fly back to fashion after years of absence. The most popular fabric seems to be velvet — white for the early Fall months, and darker for the rest of the season — especially black. Neutria felt, which resembles fur, is another leader. Beret t>'pes are seen everywhere, for all occasions from active spons to evening wear. For dressy affairs, hats made like little bonnets are flattering and fashionable. ^H YES! What about the skirt length? So conflicting have been the reports from fashion headquarters throughout the world that I finally called on the famous Harry Collins, who costumes all the best dressed stars in Hollywood. His large establishment is a veritable fairyland, and is said to rival the most gorgeous salons of Paris. "Whenever there is a new fashion trend," Mr. Collins told me, "women immediately go to extremes. For a while skirts were all very long, but they were neither practical nor becoming for all occasions. The new lengths are generally agreed upon now, and there will be few changes for some time. It is safe to place the length for street frocks and spectator sports wear twelve or thirteen inches from the floor; afternoon gowns at ankle length, and evening gowns touching the floor. There will be fewer trains, too, for women enjoy dancing, and trains make it almost impossible. Practical spons costumes will be as short as necessary to permit freedom, but they will cover the knees." Mr. Collins has very interesting views on feminine fashions. To him, there is no such thing as a "popular" color or silhouette. The fashionable thing is whatever suits the individual wearing it. Let the whole world wear the princess gown, but if one of his clients looks better in a straight frock, that's what Collins gives her. Of course, he keeps one eye at least on general trends, which are generally the result of women tiring of some overworked fad and seeking something new ; but he is never enslaved by them. Harry Collins' very clever young designer. Judge Johnson, created all of Gloria Swanson's gorgeous gowns in The Ties passer and What a Widow. The girl who buys the best material she can afford, in the colors best suited to her individual type, and makes them in a style that camouflages her defects and accentuates her good features, will unquestionably be the best dressed girl in her set this Fall and Winter. 88