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were actually some 400 to 500 per cent j aster to red light than the previous types!
These same changes have been evident to some degree in each new film type introduced by every manufacturer. As a result, the make-up artist has learned that it is absolutely impossible to specify a single make-up for all types of film.
Balance Film and Make-Up
It will be obvious, for instance, that a make-up designed to give a normal rendition of face-tones on an orthochromatic film would not do so if photographed on a panchromatic emulsion. In the same way, the minor but definite differences in color-sensitivity and color-speed between different panchromatic emulsions, not only competitive products but different film-types produced by the same manufacturer, will call for minor modifications in make-up. This has been particularly noticeable during the last two years, for all of the present-day superspeed film-types of the class pioneered by Agfa Supreme have been characterized — regardless of manufacture — by increased red speed.
Fortunately, however, make-up technique has been ready to make accurate compensation for such changes. The introduction of panchromatic film gave us a chance to replace the somewhat haphazard make-up methods and materials which had previously existed with scientifically standardized products and methods. The modern panchromatic make-up materials are an accurately-graded range of deepening shades of a reddish-brown — fairly close to the basic flesh tone, but with a sufficient brownish increment to pro
vide the desired neutral base. Each shade is numbered, with the higher numbers in every case indicating darker shades.
Most recently, an entirely new product, known as the “pancake,” has replaced the old grease-paint make-up base. This is, by the way, the only cosmetic which the United States Patent Office has deemed sufficiently unique to be patentable. As its name implies, it comes in cake form; actually it is a compressed powder made to a special formula.
And the "pancake' has revolutionized the application and use of makeup no less than Agfa’s fast films revolutionized photography. In all earlier make-up methods, two products were necessary for a finished make-up: a foundation or base (usually a greasepaint ) ; and a matched powder to provide the finished smooth face-texture. The “pancake” supplants both of these; it functions as both foundation and powder at once. In some instances after the make-up has been worn for some hours, and a sheen develops, it may be retouched with powder. Aside from this, no powder is necessary.
Simple Application
The “pancake” greatly simplifies the application of a good make-up.
It is very easily applied with a moist sponge, and it is very nearly impossible to get too much on; the consistency of the “pancake” is such that it lends itself naturally to the thin, smooth application that makes the most photogenic make-up. After the “pancake” foundation is applied, the make-up is completed by applying the desired eye-shadow and lip-rouge. The latter is best painted
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