Amateur Cine World (October 1935)

EDITING AND SPLICING Sern. Km S in the case of other film sizes, there are several types of splice available for 8mm. film. For instance, there is the straight splice with overlapping sprocket holes, then there is the diagonal splice, while finally there is the straight splice in the centre of the frame such as is produced by the familiar Kodak device. Whichever type of splicer you use, some of the information which follows will apply to it, though in particular it is directed to users of the Kodak outfit. An Important Requirement. An important requirement is a good film cement and I recommend the use of the following formula, which, although it has previously appeared in Amateur Cine World, is one which is well worth repeating since it will work equally well on Kodak, Gevaert or the new Bell & Howell Filmopan films. It is made by mixing one part each of :— Glacial acetic acid, Acetic ether, and Amyl acetate. Three fluid ounces of this solution will cost you about a shilling and sixpence and will last a very long time. However, do not leave any metal parts (such as a tin stemmed brush) in this liquid or they may be spoilt. A matter which is well worthy of note is that by reason of the single sided film perforation and the fact that all 8mm. film is of the reversal type, it is not possible to splice in a shot or title upside down except by extreme carelessness. It is merely necessary to observe that the emulsion side of each strip to be joined is upwards in the splicer and that the perforations lie in the correct position to link up as a single continuous chain. There are several faults in splicing which may be encountered and each one has its own particular remedy, but the trouble which sometimes occurs with 16mm. film in a white line appearing at the join hardly ever occurs with 8mm. film, due largely to the fact that for the sake of accuracy the small gauge splicers hold the film very tightly and do not allow any play through the perforations. Scraping the Film. The first difficulty that is likely to arise is that by reason of incomplete scraping of the film end, perfect adhesion of the two strips becomes impossible. Here, the cure isfs apparent. Apart from this, great care must be taken not to damage the film Another display of temperament from the leading lady? The home and the family offer the finest raw material available for a film rich in humour and human interest. But it will only be completely successful if you remember to make tt of interest to people outside the family circle. By ERIC F. IMPEY (Author of ‘‘ The Handbook of 8mm. Cinematography ’’) Increased facilities in the form of new apparatus and film has gained many new adherents to the ranks of 8mm.movie makers. In response to requests from these newcomers—and other readers—we publish below the first of a series of articles on 8mm. technique. Although designed primarily for users of 8mm., it will be found to contain much to interest amateurs who favour other sizes. through the. scraping action. The Kodak outfit includes a small bar with, and attached to it, a scraper on a pivot. When in use this scraper should be held tightly and pushed to and fro, as directed, but taking great care that the scraping edge is flat on the film all the time; should this not be so, as when it has a slight rocking action over the end of the film, or when, in the alternative, it is held so that the scraper does not lie squarely, then there is a considerable danger of damaging the film base by scraping it away and thus weakening the film, or, in the second case, of tearing away the edge of the film—sometimes removing the entire corner. Indeed, if the scraper is held incorrectly you will always get a bad j join, because then the emulsion cannot be cleaned right off without, to some extent, damaging the film base. A Light Touch Needed. From the delicate nature of the film it will be apparent that the pressure employed in scraping must never be great, and in fact, quite a light touch is all that is necessary. (Continued on next page) 301