Amateur Cine World (November 1935)

Readers E print below a selection of the many useful WW hints received for our monthly competition. Half-a-guinea is awarded for the best and half-a-crown for those of lesser interest. Hints for the December issue should reach us not later than October 26th. Address all entries to Hints Competition, The Editor, Amateur Cine World, 4-8, Greville Street, London, E.C.1. Half-a-guinea is awarded to the senders of the following three hints. FADING DEVICE This was made with a piece of card and a drawing pin. The arc AB, as shown in illustration, is struck from a centre O, with a radius of about 2 to 3 ins. The length of AB is approximately 3ins. and a tapered slot cut along AB has its widest opening at B. It should be slightly larger than the effective diameter of the lens aperture, say about 3in. The card is screwed or pinned on to the supplementary lens holder at O, being careful to see that the lens is central in the slot. Then by starting the camera with the card positioned so that the lens is completely covered and slowly moving the card across the lens a remarkably even “‘fade-in’” is obtained. A “fade-out”? can also be equally well done. Fading device submitted by Mr. R. D. Satchell and described in this column. For Iris IRIS FADE Cut a piece of card or plywood, approximately equal in size to the title board and fit it upright on a sliding wooden base, similar to that on which the camera is mounted only somewhat shorter. Next run the card up to the camera and carefully mark the position on the card which coincides with the centre of the camera lens. Cut or bore a hole slightly larger than the lens aperture, about 4in. and paint the side of the card facing the camera with a dull black paint. To produce an iris ‘‘fade-in,’’ place the card at its furthest distance from the camera (12 ins. is ample) start the camera and slowly bring the card right up to the camera. Working in the reverse direction will obtain an iris ‘‘ fade-out.” PRIZE-WINNING = Henss Both the two hints in col. 1 were submitted by R. D. Satchell, 32, Woodlands, Raynes Park, S.W.20., who has been awarded half-a-guinea. DEVELOPING DRUMS Before making a developing drum a long, small diameter drum should be considered instead of the more usual short, large diameter type for the following reasons. As the film expands the slack can be automatically taken up by having one rib loose as shown in sketch. After the film has been wound on, an elastic band is looped over the end of the rib outside the drum. The rib is pulled up as the film expands, keeping it tight. The drum I have made is 15in. long by 6in. in diameter and tin. lift is sufficient. The larger the diameter of the drum, the greater the lift required as there are less loops of film to lift. This increases the danger of the loose rib missing the solutions or necessitates more liquid. Also on a small diameter drum the film is out of the solutions for a much shorter length of time, decreasing the danger of uneven development. I can develop 30 feet of 9.5mm. film in my tank with 8 ozs. of developer.—J. A. Entwistle, 52, Fielding Lane, Oswaldtwistle, nr. Accrington, Lancs. The sender of the following hint has awarded half-a-crown. been WHEN FILM BREAKS DURING PROJECTION I was giving a show in a hall recently, and a splice broke on its return journey past the sprocket. As J had a spare take-up reel it was not necessary to stop projection. I simply whipped off the partly-filled spool and put on another empty one and the show went on without any interruption. This shows, I think, that a spare take-up reel is the simplest way of dealing with breaks during projection. P. D. Coles, c/o Bank of Adelaide, G.P.O. Box 3899, Adelaide, South Australia. * * * In connection with this competition we would remind readers that if their hints require illustrating and they have no skill in drawing, a rough sketch will do if it is Ee Rand. clear. Our artists te, hould betight will provide finenoughto ished drawings. lftrb) But please see toae sali the essential features ¢ () are indicated. () 0 () Developing drum designed by J. A. Entwistle, described above. 352