Amateur Photographer & Cinematographer (1935)

January 30th, 1935 The AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER a 6 CINEMATOGRAPHER o ‘Deciders' Questions 'V ANSWERED General. — All communications for the Editor should be addressed : “ The Editor, The Amateur Photographer atul Cinematographer , Dorset House, Stamford Street, London, S.E.i,” and in every case, without exception, must give the name and address of the writer. Contributions. — The Editor is glad to consider original, up-to-date manuscripts on photographic subjects. All contributions must be typewritten, or in very legible handwriting on one side of the paper only. Letters or communications arising out of matters already appearing in the paper are not paid for. The Editor disclaims legal responsibility for the safety of matter submitted to him, but he will endeavour to return rejected manuscripts, etc., when a stamped addressed envelope is enclosed. MSS. or prints that are not actually accompanied by a stamped wrapper or envelope can in no case be returned. Reproduction fees for prints are only paid by arrange¬ ment beforehand. The sending of a print, without any condition stated, will be taken as permission to reproduce it without fee. Enquiries and Criticism. — Advice, Criticism and Information are freely given, but the following conditions should be read carefully before applying, as any communication which does not comply with the rules must be ignored. (1) See " General ” above. (2) Every question and every print for criticism must be sent separately through the post, and must be accompanied by a separate stamped addressed envelope. No exception can be made in any case to this rule, except so far as enquiries or prints from Overseas are concerned. (3) Neither enquiries nor prints for criticism must be enclosed with competition prints. (4) On the back of each print sent for criticism, in addition to the name and address of the sender, must be the title (if any), and the criticism coupon from the current issue. (5) Enquiries should be clearly written, on one side of the paper only, and should be specific and not general. Such enquiries as ‘ How can I take interiors ? r or “ Can you give me some hints on outdoor portraiture ? ” are too general to be dealt with in this section. (6) All envelopes should be distinctly marked “ Query ” or “ Criticism,” as the case may be. (7) Prints are sent for advice or criticism on the distinct understanding that by so doing per¬ mission is given for their reproduction without fee. We endeavour to deal promptly with enquiries, but cannot undertake to answer by return of post, nor can we give precedence to any enquiry. A selection of those replies is printed each week, but all questions are answered by post. Enquiries from abroad must contain a coupon also, but it need not be from the current number, and should be cut from the latest issue to reach the enquirer. Stage Photographs. With f/;.5 and fast pan. film what exposure should I give for stage scenes with normal stage lighting ? W. S. P. (Romford.) The fundamental difficulty in answer¬ ing your question is that there is no definite meaning attached to the expres¬ sion “ normal stage lighting.” The lighting may vary enormously both in strength and colour. Exposures for this sort of work can only be found by experiment and experience, and we should advise you to experiment with exposures of from i /8th to \ second. In many cases, however, such exposures are much too long for the movement, another factor which also has to be taken into account. We frequently have ar¬ ticles on the subject, and these give many helpful hints. Poor Negatives. I have taken some indoor exposures, but they are exceedingly thin, and also stained. Are they under-exposed ? How can I clean them ? A. C. A. (Weslerham.) We cannot see our way to pass any opinion upon negatives we have not seen If you care to send us one or two for inspection we will see what can be done. Winter Sport Work. Is there any special snag to look for in photo¬ graphy at a winter sports resort ? Is the danger over or under-exposure ? Is a light filter the secret ? Do you recommend a meter ? O. C. (London.) The successful photography of winter sports subjects cannot be dealt with in a brief form. The chief trouble you are likely to meet is not over or under¬ exposure, but trouble with the rapid movement of some of the subjects. Very often exposure has to be timed according to this movement, and good exposure of the negative secured by varying the aperture. If you are not used to a filter we should not advise you to use one straight away without experience ; but if you get some sort of exposure metqr it will certainly help you. A simple form should answer your purpose. We think you would do well also to provide yourself with a copy of the Burroughs Wellcome Diary, which gives some information about the photography of moving objects, and also contains a very helpful method of calculating exposures. Red Tones. Can you recommend a method of obtaining what are called red-chalk tones on bromide paper ? T. F. (Wanstead.) We know of nothing better than the following : A. Copper sulphate . . 60 grs. Potassium citrate (neutral) . . . . 240 grs. Water . . . . . . 20 oz. B. Potassium ferricyanide 50 grs. Potassium citrate (neutral) . . . . 240 grs. Water . . . . . . 20 oz. For use take equal parts of A and B, and continue toning till the desired warm colour is reached. If the whites show a pink stain increase the amount of citrate. Spots on Prints. What is the cause of the black spots in the sky of the enclosed print ? J. E. (Walsall.) Although they are most noticeable in the sky you will find that the spots are present elsewhere as well. Unless we are much mistaken you will find cor¬ responding clear spots on the negative. They are due to particles of dust. See that the inside of your camera is quite free from dust, and also both inside and outside of your dark slides. A touch with a crowquill pen lightly charged with ink will fill up the spots on the negative, and the resulting white spots on the print can be retouched. But prevention is better than cure. Titling Press Prints. What is the correct way of putting title and caption on prints submitted to the Press ? W. H. (Bristol.) There is no definite rule. The worst way, although rather common, is to write on the back with a hard pencil, which gives an embossed disfigurement on the front. Probably the best way is to write or type what is required on a slip of paper, and attach this to the back. You should always include your ■name and address as well. Keeping Hypo. How long can hypo be kept in the dry state and in the usual solution ? B. M. E. (Wells.) If it is really kept “ dry” hypo will last indefinitely in crystal form. A wellcorked earthenware jar is ideal for storage. Damp is fatal. We have never kept hypo solution long enough to ascertain when it begins to deteriorate, but we should not expect any change in a year or more. Waterproofing Bench. Can you give me the formula of a naphtha pre¬ paration for waterproofing a bench ? F. F. (Brumley.) With a stiff brush give three successive coats of : Asphalt . . . . . . 4 oz. Pure rubber . . . . 30 grs. Mineral naphtha . . . . 10 oz. Fog on Negatives. I have several negatives fogged at the edges like the enclosed specimen. Is this because the light is unsafe ? V. G. (Fife.) An unsafe light would not fog the edges only. Either the plates are stale, or they have been improperly stored. You will note a sort of metallic appear¬ ance where the stain or fog is present. It is probable that it would disappear if rubbed with Baskett’s reducer. Treating Lamphouse. The Russian-iron lamphouse of my enlarger has become dingy, and shows slight signs of rusting. What should I do to restore it ? F. A. A. (London.) We do not think it is possible for you to restore the original appearance, but the following treatment is simple and effective. Remove any traces of rust with fine emery paper ; dust well ; and apply Nugget (or similar) polish, and brighten up exactly as you would a boot. This not only improves the appearance, but acts as a preservative, and the treatment can be quickly repeated when necessary. Hypo Solution. How should I make up a 25 per cent solution of hypo ? B. L. (London.) Dissolve 1 lb. of hypo in, say, two pints of hot water, and add water to make 64 oz. Dull Mirror. The mirror of my reflex camera has gradually become so dull that it is practically useless. Can I repolish it in any way f H. L. (Chelmsford.) There is only one satisfactory method, and that is to send it to a dealer and have it resilvered and revarnished. The cost is small, and the mirror will be as good as when new. , Il6 24