Amateur Photographer & Cinematographer (1937)

August 4th, 1937 The AMATEUR PHOTOGRAPHER p 6 CINEMATOGRAPHER o Miniature Matters TEN GUINEAS AND UNDER A Section for the User of the inexpensive Miniature. The Cyclist’s Companion quite small ; for a day trip the one in the camera is usually enough. Like a good many other beginners with a minia¬ ture my first efforts suf¬ fered quite badly from camera-shake ; practice, however, has enabled me to get over this initial trouble. Now that I am thoroughly confident of my ability to obtain “ Butter-fingers ! ” THE confirmed cyclist always likes to reduce the weight and bulk of his impedimenta to the small¬ est possible limits. I was first attracted to the inexpensive type of miniature camera by their extreme portability ; they are light and, carried in the pocket, they neither get in the way nor require unpacking when it is desired to take a photograph. My Ensign Double-8 weighs only a fraction over nine ounces, and sixteen photographs at one loading means that the supply of spare films need only be “ Now Try Again." NO doubt many miniature enthu¬ siasts who use 3x4 cm. cameras will be interested to know of a simple method of obtaining 18 negatives per roll instead of the more usual 16 — a film saving of 12 J per cent. It occurred to me when developing a roll recently that there was ample waste film at the ends to allow of two additional negatives, one at each end, and after a little experiment I found it quite easy to obtain the desired result. Using a Kolibri camera and Isopan F film, the film is wound on slowly until the “ I ” of the word “ Isopan ” just shows at the bottom of the first window. This leaves the edge of the first negative just clear of the sticking-down tape attaching the film to the backing-paper. The second exposure is made when the Treasure Trove. satisfactory results, my camera accom¬ panies me on every trip. And to this I owe many such sets of photographs as the three reproduced herewith, which recall very pleasing memories of a hotweather dip in a stream by the side of which we paused for lunch during a short tour in the Cotswolds. H. W. figure 1 is turned right to the top of the first red window, beyond the position it would normally occupy. As the film is exposed, the numbers are gradually brought back to the normal position in the windows, and after the 8 has been exposed in the top window the winder is given seven-eighths of a full turn and a further exposure made. It will be found that there is still enough film left at the end to enable the film to be stuck to the backing-paper in daylight and developed in a tank in the ordinary way. Users of “ r6-on ” cameras, whether of 3X4 cm. or 4.5 x6 cm. size, who wish to effect this economy should roll an exposed film, with backing-paper, through their cameras to find for them¬ selves the settings necessary with the film they favour. D. P. Johnson. A selection of readers’ queries that deal with “miniature” photography will be answered here every week. “ SEASE.” The word “ Sease” is frequently used in con¬ junction with fine-grain developers. I cannot find this word either in a large dictionary I have or in the “ Dictionary of Photography ,” so I should be glad if you will tell me what it means. T. McN. ( Aldershot .) Dr. Sease, the Chief of Research for the Dupont Film Corporation of America, was the originator of the “Sease III” and other developers containing paraphenylene-diamine and glycin, and they con¬ sequently bear his name. MARKS IN PHYSICAL DEVELOPMENT. I enclose a negative developed physically in a tank , using the method given by Wolf man in his book “ The Fine-Grain Negative .” Can you explain the markings on the negative ? J . B. W. ( Carmarthenshire .) Inspection of your negative suggests that parts of it were wetted, probably with the forebath, a few seconds before the other parts. This you can avoid if you put the solution into the empty tank, and then also the reel into the solution, turning it as you put it in, and lifting it up once or twice in the first few seconds after the immersion. DEVELOPMENT TIMES. Can you suggest a suitable time for developing the new Agfa Isopan F film in Dj6 ? So many differ¬ ent times have been mentioned that I am rather at a loss. I recently developed a new-type F film in the Agfa 14 developer for 13 minutes at 65 degrees , and I personally thought the negatives too hard. Does this time seem excessive to you ? R.C. (Bath.) It is difficult for us to suggest any very definite time for the development of any film, because it depends so much on the kind of negative you wish to produce. With the new Agfa Isopan film and D76 developer we should suggest from 5 to 7 minutes at 65 degrees Fahr. We are not sufficiently familiar with the Agfa 14 developer to make any comments on your develop¬ ment time, but, as the negatives were developed more fully than you like, the time was obviously excessive. FILM FOR FOREIGN CAMERA. I have just come into possession of a camera which uses 35 -mm. film and makes up to 50 exposures on a single length. Where can I get recharges of film for it? The camera is called the “ Amourette ,” but nobody seems to stock films to suit it. D. H. L. (Manston.) We are not familiar with the camera that you have, which is not, we think, on the British market, and we therefore cannot advise you as to where you can obtain film in chargers to fit the camera. As the name suggests that it might be of French origin, you might write to Maison Tiranty, 91, rue La Fayette, Paris, XIe, who are well-known dealers, especially in miniature cameras. If you are already in pos¬ session of sufficient chargers you can obtain 35-mm. film with which to reload them through any photo¬ graphic dealer, in lengths from 15 ft. upwards. A SIX-EXPOSURE FILM. During my holiday it is my intention to use only Dufay color film in my “ Brilliant ” camera. This camera, making 12 exposures on a normal 8expo¬ sure film, has an automatic counter. How do I use it for a Dufay color film which gives 6 3^x2^ exposures, and how many of my square pictures shall I get on each spool ? C. N. (Parley.) In the case of the “ Brilliant ” camera the counter is operated by the movement of the film itself, and therefore will work in a normal manner. Each film will give you 9 exposures in place of the 12 to which you are accustomed, but in other respects the camera is handled as usual. Load the camera, wind till “ 1 ” shows in the window, and set the counter. Wind off the finished film when 9 exposures have been made, instead of waiting till you have twelve. LESS THAN THIRTY-SIX. Can one avoid having to use all 36 frames in a Leica before development ? Or can one buy shorter lengths of film ? J. H. W. (Aberdeen.) The simplest way of obtaining less than 36 exposures in a Leica is to use the Leitz chargers for which the camera was designed, and to load them yourself with film bought in lengths of 15 ft. or upwards. From such a length you can cut off enough to give you whatever number of exposures you desire. Filled chargers or cut lengths are only sold in strips giving the full 36 exposures. Eighteen Instead of Sixteen 20 133