American cinematographer (Jan-Dec 1955)

LINE, pencilled on upper and lower lids and blended to almost a THE PERFECT lip line is best achieved by using a lip brush made shadow, prevents eyes appearing red-rimmed, makes eyes larger. for the purpose. Careful outlining here is important. for the most natural effect. For a more dramatic effect, we suggest a heavier ap¬ plication of rouge and no blotting for a high stay-on lustre. “Even the powder used in modern col¬ or make-up has changed,” Factor contin¬ ued. “In the past, as you may recall, there was a definite added color to the powder. With current color films, this former color in powder is not only un¬ necessary, it is taboo. Once the founda¬ tion color is carefully selected, it must remain: the modern powder is therefore tranluscent, and adds no color to the foundation whatsoever.” Mr. Factor concluded his remarks by emphasizing the usual care required in applying make-up to the neck, shoulders, hands and arms (if exposed) to give a continuity of skin tone. If the hands, for example, are left in their natural color¬ ing while the face, arms, shoulders and neck are made-up, the subject will often appear to have red, blue or even white hands. Continuity of make-up is a para¬ mount consideration. Costume colors should be carefully considered when choosing the proper lip¬ stick shade. If a woman is wearing a fuschia gown and an orange-colored lip rouge, the color-clash is obvious and far from beautiful. Lipstick does not neces¬ sarily have to match the costume, but it should harmonize. Factor warned. Often, a red-toned gown is so dark that the same shade of lipstick would be out of line with the film demands as outlined in the charts. Films are constantly changing and be¬ ing improved. Make-up especially de¬ signed for last year’s negative films may not be adequate for the new emulsions discovered in recent months. However, (Continued, on Page 544) SUGGESTED MAKE-UP CHART FOR EASTMAN COLOR FILM NO. 5248 Pan-Cake or Pan-Sfik Powder Creme Cheek Rouge Dry Rouge Moist Rouge (Lips) Lip Pomade (Lips) Eyeshadow (Liner) Eyebrow Pencil Eyelash Make-Up WOMEN 7-25A or 7-25B or 7-25C C3-238 (Translucent) Flame or IB Lip Pomade Flame or Light Tech. 7-22 Brown $3 or Blue-Grey $6 Lt. Brown, Brown, Black Brown, Brownish-Black, Black MEN VC-7 or 7-25G or 7-25H C-3-238 (Translucent) Dark Tech. (Sparingly) T-3 (Sparingly) Brown if: 3 Brown or Black Brown (Optional) VC Series of Pan-Cake and Pan-Stick: VC1 , VC2, VC3, VC4, VC5, VC6, VC 7, VC7A, VC8, VC8A, VC9A 7-25 Series of Pan-Stick: 7-25, 7-25A, 7-25B, 7-25C, 7-25D, 7-25E, 7-25F, 7-25G, 7-25H 7-25 Series of Pan-Cake: 7-25A, 7-25B, 7-25C, 7-25D, 7-25E, 7-25F, 7-25G, 7-25H The VC Series of Pan-Stik and Pan-Cake are the original series made for Eastman film. The 7-25 Series of Pan-Stik and Pan-Cake are the latest series and contain Pink undertones. Either series is correct to use. The preference is the individuals. 7-22 Lip Pomade is lighter and more natural appearing than 7-16. 7-16 Lip Pomade reproduces a deeper red tone. SUGGESTED MAKE-UP CHART FOR ANSCO COLOR WOMEN MEN Pan-Cake or Pan-Stik Make-up VC5 VC8 Powder Tech. Special Tech. Special Creme Rouge (Cheeks) Flame None Dry Rouge Flame or Light Tech. Dark Tech. Lip Pomode 1C Moist Rouge (Lips) T-3 Eyeshadow (Liner) Brown $3 or Blue Grey it6 Brown fl: 3 Eyebrow Pencil Lt. Brown, Brown, Black Brown, Black Eyelash Make-Up Brown Brownish-Black, Brownish-Black Black (Optional) VC Series of Pan-Cake and Pan-Stik: VC1, VC2, VC3, VC4, VC5, VC6, VC 7, VC8, VC8A, VC9A VC1 is the lightest shade. The colors become progressively darker until they reach 9A which is a very deep tan. Colors lighter or darker than VC5 may be used for lighter or darker skin tone effects. for women. Colors lighter or darker than VC8 may be used for lighter or darker skin tone effects, for men. Lip Pomade 7-16 may be used for a pastel lip color effect on the lips of women. Women whose complexion tones are quite ruddy should wear 626B or 626C Pan-Cake or Pan-Stik, instead of VC5. These colors contain less red pigment. More neutral skin tones for men who are very ruddy are K1 and K2 Pan-Cake or Pan-Stik. 528 American Cinematographer September, 1955