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178 RICHARDSON'S BLUEBOOK OF PROJECTION
Film should be rewound at the rate of six minutes for each 1000 feet of film — and no faster.
Avoid excessive tension by properly setting the tension at the projector aperture and at the take-up.
All sprocket idlers should be adjusted properly.
All sprocket idlers should rotate easily and smoothly so that they will not wear flat on one side.
Watch all sprocket teeth and replace them at once if they show signs of hooking or undercutting.
Allow no scraps of emulsion or bits of film cement to accumulate on any portion of the projector film track.
Maintain proper tension upon the reel in the upper magazine to avoid overrunning of the film and the consequent jerks to take up the slack.
When running soft, new film, watch out for collection of scraps of emulsion and film cement upon the tension shoes. These deposits generally come from too much tension at the aperture.
Make splices carefully following the procedure outlined on page 179.
See that the reel that is being rewound has enough tension to make 'the film fit snugly on the other reel, eliminating the constant "pulling down" process by hand which is the cause of much damage to film.
Keep the projection room perfectly clean. Dust in the air settles upon and scratches the emulsion side of the, film.
And above all do not permit untrained assistants to make splices or other repairs to the film. A great deal of trouble is started that way.
(28) Mismatched sprocket holes resulting from careless splicing do much damage. They will "clamp" or stick on a sprocket tooth and pull the film around the sprocket. Often sprocket teeth will climb out of the sprocket hole and travel along the face of the film, making indentations that will show up on the screen or be heard in the auditorium, if the sound track has been defaced. Mismatched sprocket holes at a splice cause the screen image to jump every time they pass over the