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TINTING AND TONING MOTION PICTURE FILM 383
Tones from warm sepia to red are obtainable with the following Uranium toner:
(A) Uranium Nitrate _ _ 25 grains
Acetic Acid (glacial) Vi ounce
Distilled Water _ 18 ounces
(B) Potassium Ferricyanide .... . 25 grains
Acetic Acid (glacial) V2 ounce
Distilled Water _ _ 18 ounces
Mix A and B in equal parts immediatly before using. The separate solutions keep indefinitely. If dry, the film to be toned should first be soaked in water before immersion in this bath, and, during immersion, be kept constantly on the move. When the desired tone is reached, the film should be removed to a stop-bath of 35 drops of acetic acid to 35 ounces of water. Washing should be done in still water, as running water is liable to wash out some of the color: the time of washing is until all trace of yellow is discharged. This is best used with rather thin images, as the action is somewhat of an intensifier.
Beautiful green tones are obtainable with this Vanadium Toner:
Vanadium Chloride (50 9o solution) 40 minims
Ferric Chloride 10 grains
Ferric Oxalate 10 grains
Potassium Ferricyanide 20 grains
Oxalic Acid (Saturated Solution) _ 2Vi ounces
Water to 20 ounces
The oxalic acid solution is prepared by dissolving oxalic acid crystals in boiling water in the proportion of one ounce of water to every ounce of crystals. The solution should be allowed to cool. Add the ferric chloride and oxalate to the oxalic acid solution diluted in half the water, then add the ferricyanide, stirring well, and finally the vanadium. Tone until the color is slightly darker than required and then wash until the desired tone is reached. Any yellowish stain left in the highlights may be removed by a weak solution of ammonium sulpho-cyanide (2 grains per ounce of water). This toner has a considerable reducing action.
REVERSAL
Making Direct Positives
The making of direct positives, whether by the reversal-film process generally used by amateurs, or by converting an ordinary negative into a positive, consists in making a negative on a strip of film, developing it, and then printing that negative on the same strip and destroying the original negative chemically, but leaving the positive print to be developed, etc., in the usual way.
In 35mm. use, where regular reversal film is not available, either negative or positive film may be used, but where the light permits, positive is preferable, as it gives snappier results, although it is not corrected for color-values. As positive stock is far slower than negative, it can only be used under the best light conditions, and always with a much wider diaphragm opening than would be used with negative. It is not recommended for interiors. In any case, the exposure must be rather full.