Cinematographic annual : 1930 (1930)

158 CINEMATOGRAPHIC ANNUAL Today what we call Panchromatic Make-Up is the rule, being used by every studio in America and the principal studios throughout the world. And the development of Panchromatic Make-Up we consider one of the most important achievements in the art. This was brought about because of the introduction of Panchromatic film, a film sensitive to all colors, recording them in their true, harmonious relations, and eliminating finally those sharp, hard contrasts so common with the use of the old-time orthochromatic film. When this film was introduced our organization, together with the organizations mentioned above, went into the matter of make-up for the new film at Warner Brothers' Studio in Hollywood. And there we worked out the Panchromatic Make-Up which gives the screen performer a standard range of complexion tones that balances, and which can withstand the color absorption properties of every modern lighting device. Further, this new make-up enabled the Cinematographer to attain more natural and desirable results. In motion picture making, make-up is an exacting art. The keen eye of the camera sees every detail and imperfection, and the projector magnifies them, so the greatest care must be exercised. At this point it might be well to mention some of the important uses of make-up with respect both to performer and Cinematographer. 1. Disfigured faces and objectionable blemishes, since they are magnified by the camera, may be rendered invisible, or at least subdued, by the correct uses of make-up. 2. The natural contrasts which give tone and color to a complexion are lost in the photographic process. The adjustment is easily made by the use of color in make-up. 3. Faces that have become tanned and sunburned can maintain their true characterizations throughout the making of a picture with the use of make-up, 4. During the making of a picture the strain of hard work and long hours may show its signs. Make-up subdues these evidences of fatigue and permits the original characterization to go on unchanged. 5. Retouching of photographs is a highly skilled art. It is even difficult in still photography, resulting too often in the subject wearing an unnatural or false expression. For motion picture photography retouching is physically impossible. Artistically done, make-up is the most practical way to correct and adjust facial deficiencies. 6. Since make-up has contributed to the perfection of cinematography it has been applied with equal results to portrait photography. Directions for the Application of Make-Up 1. Preparing the Face — The face must be thoroughly clean before make-up is applied. The best way is to wash the face with soap and water. Men should be smoothly shaven. . 2. Base for Grease Paint — It is often necessary to use cold cream before applying grease paint. In my laboratory, however, we have developed a grease paint which eliminates this need.