Cinematographic annual : 1930 (1930)

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ART OP MOTION PICTURE MAKE-UP 167 4. Laying the hair in the direction in which it naturally grows is the most important detail. It is a good idea to study a real bearded man and note in what direction the hair grows on different parts of the face. Under the chin the hair grows toward the front, and on the sides grows down. To imitate nature and to reproduce it as accurately as possible, every detail must be carefully observed. 5. Take a small amount of hair from the prepared stack and cut the top ends evenly to the general angle that your beard is going to take. The ends only are to adhere to the spirit gum. Start at the chin, placing your first layer of hair at the lowest point under the chin and work towards the front with each succeeding layer. 6. When all the necessary hair has been applied, press the hair to the face with a towel, holding it firmly a few seconds. Do this to every section so that you are sure the hair sticks. Holding the ends of the hair in place with your fingers, comb out the loose hair very gently. 7. Now the beard can be combed and brushed as a real beard. It is then trimmed into any style with all the realism of a barber's art. A pair of tweezers will come in handy to remove odd hairs that affect the smartness of the hair line. Applying mustache Unshaven effect Mustache To build a mustache, prepare the hair as described under the process for the beard. With your thumb and index finger remove sufficient amount of hair from your prepared stack. Trim ends on a bias. After coating your upper lip with spirit gum in the shape of the desired mustache, apply the hair, beginning at the outer corner of the lip and shingling up toward the center. When all the hair is applied, press a towel against your mustache so it adheres firmly to the face. Hold it in place with your fingers and with a comb remove loose hair. Then trim the mustache neatly with scissors. You can brush the mustache lightly with spirit gum, to set the hairs in place, and shape with mustache wax. This gives it a natural appearance. Unshaven Effect A grey-blue or red-brown lining color is the shade to be used for the effect of an unshaven face. The illusion-creating color is applied with a porous rubber sponge. Smear the sponge well with the color you intend using, then stipple it over the ground tone of your com