Close Up (Jul-Nov 1927)

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CLOSE UP the set is brilliantly (only in one sense of the word) lit. Please don't think that I am advising you to light a set hke this, I am only presenting you with a prehminary exercise. You will have found out one or two things by doing this. You will have discovered that you frequently want a spot shooting down a wall from the top of a set to 'lift' a shadow. (You may use a spot like this on exteriors to suggest the illumination of a street lamp.) You will realize too that often you want a lamp shooting on to a set, and yet keep its rays shaded from the lens of the camera. This is done with a 'nigger', a large black-board in a frame, rather like an easel. Again you will know that it is difficult, when there are several lights on a set, to find out whether a light covers a certain object or not. To discover the range of lamp you must wave your hand in front of it, and you will see the shadow on the object. WTien the actors are in the set you have another indication of how to place your lights. You can, and should, throw some light on to them. Experience will show you that in a 'close-up' you will get a shadow of the nose thrown on the face, if your lights are too near. This difficulty must be overcome by 'diffusing' the lights, that is by placing a frame of some material in from of them. Silk is softer than hnen, and oil paper makes the light still more spread. The actors would have a very worried expression in a 'close-up' if you did not diffuse the light, besides they would be candidates for a severe attack of Kleig eyes. There is the alternative of using soft mercury vapour lamps which cast no shadow, but the camera 44