Film and Radio Guide (Oct 1945-Jun 1946)

54 FILM AND RADIO GUIDE Volume XII, No. 2 How to Use For speed and accuracy in repairing or editing film, a precision instrument is necessary, such as the Griswold Junior Splicer.* Watching an expert using one of these splicers, one sees that the job of making a perfect splice takes but a few moments — a minute or so — but the expert goes through ten steps for each splice. With proper care, good splicers last a long time, and they are well worth the slight additional cost for high-quality machine-tooling. Used originally in theatres and in 35mm exchanges throughout the world, before the development of 16mm projection, the Griswold has come to be regarded by many users as the No. 1 device of its kind. Its leading competitor is the Craig splicer. IMPORTANCE OF THE EMULSION SCRAPER The manner of using the emulsion scraper is important. Before inserting the blade in the scraper holder, see that the blade and the slot for receiving the blade are perfectly clean, so that the blade will go back against the stop. Any foreign substance will cause the blade to protrude, thereby causing the blade to remove too much emulsion. This will leave a transparent line beyond the splice. The emulsion scraper blade should be held firmly against the stop when adjusting the screw which holds it. There are eight positions in which to place the emulsion scraper blade in the holder, each position presenting a new scraping edge. Usually a very thin film cement does not work so well as a cement having a little body. If trouble is experienced in making splices hold, try thickening the cement by dissolving a small quantity of celluloid film in the "Manufactured by Gi'iswold Machine Works, Port Jefferson, New York, and sold by photographic supply stores. the Griswold 16mnn Splicer r Griswold film splicer JUNIOR MODEL 16% No. PATENTED IN THE U.S-A. AND FOREIGN COUNTRIES LMANUrACTURED BY GRISWOLD MACHINE WORKS PORT JEFFERSON. N Y. , cement to bring it up to the best working consistency. Do not attempt to change any adjustments on a new splicer. Each splicer is in proper operative condition when shipped. The cement guai'd attached to the upper left jaw should not protrude below the lower face of the jaw and should be spaced fully a 1 from the left edge of the lower shear blade. This guard is to prevent applying cement where not needed. TEN STEPS REQUIRED TO MAKE A PERFECT SPLICE 1. Swing the upper jaw of the right clamp up against the stop. Swing the left film clamp (comprising upper and lower jaws) back against the stop. 2. Placing the film, emulsion side up, on the lower right jaw, with the dividing line over the center of the lower shear blade, bring the upper jaw down on the film. 3. Bring down the left film clamp, cutting the film, and raise the right film clamp with the film. 4. Swing the upper jaw of the left film clamp back against the stop. Place the other section of the film, emulsion side up, on the lower left jaw. With the dividing line over the center of the lower shear , blade, bring the upper left jaw down on the film. 5. Bring down the right clanq) to cut the film and swing it back again to the stop. 6. With a dampened felt disc, moisten the emulsion on the film held by the left film clamp, overlapping the lower shear blade. (This is not absolutely necessary but is especially advisable on old film.) 7. WITH THE BRUSH END OF THE SCRAPER DOWNWARD, insert the lip between the guide and the lower shear blade, incline the scraper in the direction of travel, scrape the emulsion from the center of the film off the edge each way. (The brush on the scraper is for use in removing any particles of emulsion which may remain on the film after sci aping.) 8. With the left hand, raise the left clamp with the film so that the film is about 14" above the lower shear blade. While the film is being held in this position, apply the cement with one stroke of the brush, then bring the left clamp down on the stop and immediately bring the right film clamp, carrying the other section of film, down on the stop. 9. After allowing a few seconds for the initial set of the cement, raise the upper jaws of the right and left film clamps and wipe off the surplus cement with a dry cloth. 10. The film is now spliced and may be removed and wound in the i-eel. CAUTION: Do not allow the splicer to become rusty or allow cement to accumulate upon the steel parts. Cement is easily I'emoved by painting it with film cement and wiping it off with a dry cloth.