Hollywood Studio Magazine (July 1971)

ceramic products even today. There was a touch of romance in the elder Lucchese, and he longed for something better than the future offered him as a skilled peasant in his native land. Taking what money he could save, Lucchese left for America and promise of wealth it offered for men who were willing to work hard. Landing eventually at Fort San Houston, a cavalry school in Texas, Lucchese set up a tiny shop and began seeking customers among the soldiers stationed nearby. It was a strict military requirement that graduating officers buy three pairs of top quality leather boots before they were given a diploma. This encouraged business, and soon Lucchese sent for each of his brothers, one by one to help in the business. In a short time, five Lucchese's were hard at work turning out boots. As the brothers married however, they were persuaded to move away by their wives, or change occupations — one was shot by a jealous husband! The family guild disintegrated, but Sam stuck by his sewing machines and Fort Sam Houston. When WWI broke out, the need for officers expanded, and at the peak, 35 pairs of boots left the shop each day. By this time, Cosimo, Sam's boy had entered the trade. Hardly a businessman, Cosimo was more interested in developing a new style of last or decoration than making money with run-of-the-mill products. "He was the artist," Sam said looking over his stock of boots with a wistful glance. Cosimo had learned the craft sitting at his fathers feet, a traditional form of training among old world craftsmen. In time the demands of production changed at the Lucchese shop under the direction of Cosimo. The firm turned from standard military riding boots, to custom fitted, hand made and decorated ones. As word of Cosimo's skill spread, silent movie stars began placing orders. One of the first was Tom Mix. Another was Hoot Gibson, who had met the Lucchese's while riding broncos in Texas rodeos. As Mix and Gibson faded from popularity, Ken Maynard and Johnny Mack Brown replaced them as customers. Finally in the 1940's it was Roy Rogers and Gene Autry, who introduced the flamboyant "drug store cowboy" look to millions of American kids. Even politicians have found their way into the Lucchese showrooms. Former president, Lyndon B. Johnson is a regular customer, and remained one through all his years in Washington, D.C. from the senate to the White House. For LBJ, Lucchese makes a comfortable boot decorated with fancy stitching on the top, leaving the bottom plain. Gene Autry still likes a few pair of extra fancy boots, but wears plain ones for business conferences and other commercial functions. Autry's closet at home is the size of a small house, and it is filled with Western clothes and Lucchese boots. Anne Baxter is another satisfied customer. Miss Baxter prefers somewhat distinctive foot gear, such as the order she once placed with Sam for boots decorated with butterflies. To make sure the finished product suited her. Miss Baxter brought a real butterfly along for the boot maker to duplicate in colored leather. Like his father, Sam Lucchese loves to create beautiful things in leather, and butterfly boots was the type of challenge he loves. Carefully dying each piece the exact color of the insects wings, he soon had a perfect match stitched on the actresses boots. But the cost was high, "Quite a bit over $1000," Sam admitts. But the Lucchese line isn't limited to cowboy boots. Another favorite is spats. Sam decided people might like to wear the old time shoes again, and made a few sample pair. Before he knew it, orders were pouring in and spats have become an essential part of his inventory. When he fits a customer for the first time, Lucchese uses a special instrument to take the foot contour outline, as well as the usual measurements. This process may take half an hour, but all the results are carefully noted in a bound book Lucchese keeps on file. No matter how long a customer may wait between orders, Lucchese will be able to make a new pair of boots that fit him perfectly — using his reference system. These files go back to the days of General "Black Jack" Pershing, an old Lucchese customer, and they are rarely destroyed. "We keep them for sentimental value as well as practical use," Lucchese said. Looking down at the craftsman's feet, I noticed he wasn't wearing cowboy boots. Instead, they were low cut shoes. "These are made on cowboy boot lasts," he explained, ' but they have been cut off at the top for cooling. I enjoy wearing these more than boots, especially in hot weather." If Grandpa Lucchese was looking down at that moment, he might have turned over in his grave. But then, nobody is perfect. Not even the king of cowboy boots. *** of Cowboy Boots 7