Hollywood (Jan - Oct 1934)

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Adrian designed this daring frock for Norma Shearer for Riptide but off -screen she dresses far more conservatively Madge Evans is a striking example of the charm school whose intelligence is not of the dramatic type but who knows what she means and expresses it in clothes 42 FASHION »s The First Thrilling bars of music herald the latest /\ Greta Garbo, Joan Crawford or Norma Shearer ■* *■ production, you will notice, as the presentation unreels, the simple credit — "Gowns by Adrian." That is your cue to sit taut in your seat and strain all faculties for what you and you and you will next be wearing is about to be revealed! Perhaps, as you gasp, you've turned a little green with good, old-fashioned envy? You needn't. I've talked with Adrian and I've learned that wearing distinctive clothes is not a privilege confined necessarily to actresses and people of wealth. If we will but use common sense, applied to the yardstick of Adrian's theories, clothes will become eloquent expressions of the personalities and charms of even as you and I! There are but two simple rules, which, according to Hollywood's greatest style creator, will serve as a basis for everyone. First: Take stock, not of your body, but of your mind! That is what Adrian does to each star with whom he works. Even before attempting sketches he talks with her, gets her slant on life. Not, if you please, the life she totes out for the benefit of her public, but the private one which is the key to her personality. He tries to feel what is really going on inside that beautiful head of hers. Then, if he designs her clothes for private life, they are the expression of that, and that alone. For picture purposes, of course, Adrian must also determine how the character she is to portray thinks, and then blend the two — for that is how she will appear on the screen. But remember, it is the star's own inner personality that serves as a basis. This alone you must bear in mind. • So Adrian's Rule No. 1 is: "A woman must look as she feels and not try to feel as she looks." In a few words, don't choose things for yourself because they look well on a friend, a figure in a department store window or even on your favorite film star. Make your clothes express your personality — and yours alone. The stars do! "If a woman looks like Garbo and thinks in terms of the hotcha Lupe Velez, she must dress like the latter, for no matter how strong the resemblance is, Garbo clothes would look ridiculous on her," Adrian told me. Which brings us to the question of what are Garbo clothes? According to Adrian they are anything that is highly original, expressing the creative force of Garbo, the artist! But they must also have a quality of old-world repose and maturity which she expresses off-screen. In private life Garbo has no interest in clothes and usually wears tailored tweeds. On the screen, however, glamorous Garbo, the artist, demands originality before anything else — and she is willing to try anything that Adrian suggests. The more original or seemingly absurd at first, the more she is pleased, and the better the clothes seem to suit her. To prove the point that he always lets mind HOLLYWOOD