Home Movies (Jan-Dec 1940)

*Yl/]ore about 1940 “III!!" CDMEIH Authored by Ray E. Merville Illustrations by Author • This month, Ray Merville completes instructions on creating a "Dream" camera from a model 60 Cine Kodak. The photos and sketch on this page illustrate steps necessary in the conversion process. Illustrations 2, 3, 4, and 6 appeared in the April issue. © © F ROM the number of letters received commenting on last month’s article, we know that many owners of Model 60 Eastman cameras are well on their way to having a 1940 “Dream” camera. The next operation is the installation of the single frame gear and shaft to which the motor is •connected. Please refer to photograph No. 5. You will see the gear in the lower center of the picture, just below the horizontal belt. The gear is 1/3” diameter pitch 16 tooth 48 pitch. The bearing is bronze and the shaft is 3/16” diameter. Photograph No. 8 shows the motor assembly. The motor runs without load at 3500 r.p.m. Under load of the camera with film, at 3200 r.p.m. The reduction gear assembly on the motor is a ratio of 3 to 1. This causes the motor to revolve the main gear in the camera at approximately the same speed as the spring motor revolved it. However, it’s just a trifle faster so that it runs against the camera governor which keeps the camera at a constant speed of 16 frames per second. Binding posts are arranged on the camera case so that when the motor is attached, the internal switch will be cut in, and through the regular camera release button, will operate the motor. Duralumin is used wherever possible in order to lighten the assembly. However, bronze is used where bearings are necessary. Sleeve bearings of bronze can be inserted in the duralumin. A crystal microphone cable is used to connect the motor to the source of electricity. This cable has a single wire running through the center of a shielded cable. The shield acts as one of the conductors. This was used because the connec tions are simple and easily attached, and the cable is very flexible considering the amount of current it will carry. The hand crank shown in photograph No. 8 is very necessary, as this is used as a one-frame crank when needed ; but more important, it is used to form the loop when the film has been reversed, and it will also be found very handy for more accurately placing the film, being guided by the frame counter. It is necessary that a flexible coupling be used between the motor and the camera drive shaft. Short lengths of the best grade of rubber windshield wiper tubing was found to be satisfactory. Clamps similar to those used on radiator hose on the automobile should be made for clamping the tubing to the shafts, or cotter pins and the shafts and tubing drilled. Photograph No. 3 shows the motor completely enclosed. Stainless steel was used for this purpose. The gear case was made grease tight and before putting the cover in place the case was filled with white vaseline. On the back of the motor housing, near the cable coupling, there was inserted a small double pole, double throw switch, used for reversing the motor. Care should be exercised in reversing the motor. Before throwing the reversing switch, one should religiously check the position of the “claw shift knob” shown in photograph No. 2. This should be in “back” position, indicated by a mark “B.” In this position the pull down claw will be moved away from the film and will not damage it when reversed. The film supply spool automatically becomes the take-up spool when the film is run backwards. When the film is ready to move forward again, throw the “claw shift knob” to “F” or “forward” position. Re-form the loop — that is, the upper loop — by turning the single frame hand crank on the motor one or two frames. Throw the switch on the motor to forward position and the camera mechanism is ready to transport the film forward again. Photograph No. 7 and Sketch “D” show construction of the combination electric switch and camera release. The bakelite block is attached to the camera with the two screws as shown. The ratchet and pawl used on the spring motor should be removed to make more space for the bakelite switch block. The phosphorous bronze spring, shown in the • Con’d on Page 241