Home Movies (1942)

PACE 278 HOME MOVIES FOR |ULY THE EXPERIMESTU Parallax Corrector' Photo shows a highly efficient parallax corrector or alignment gauge for the Filmo eight. Construction details are shown in accompanying sketch. Materials are a piece of bar metal (aluminum, brass, or steel) '/4"x2"x9"; three y^'xio machine screws i" in length; two y/' wing nuts; and a short piece of 1/ 1 6" brass rod. Metal bar should be cut into two pieces as required, then the two pieces bent to shape before trimming down to final size. An inside radius of about '/^" at the bends will do. Corners should be rounded as shown. Most important dimensions are the 21/32" horizontal and 15/ 16" vertical differences between the centers of the lens and finder of the camera. The important thing is to locate properly these center points and build the rest of the gadget around them. With these two centers located on the DON'T KEEP IT A SECRET! Tell your brother hobbyists about those gadgets you've made to enliven your movie making pleasure. Those ideas for gadgets, tricks or shortcuts in filming, titling, editing or processing home movies — pass them on to fellow cinebugs through these columns. For each idea published, you'll receive two new proiectk>n reels. Extraordinary ideas will bring you a roll of film. Write description of your idea plainly and when possible accompany it with a photo, sketch or diagram. There's no limit on number of ideas you may submit. Ideas not immediately publiched will be held for possible future publication unless they duplicate ideas previously submitted. Important: Be sure to mention whether your cine equipment is 8mm. or 16mm. so we may promptly forward award adaptable to your use. larger or stationery piece ^i, draw diagonal line connecting the two and extend it as shown so that the two guide studs can be set that far apart and yet travel the full distance required. Best way to cut slot in ^ i piece is by drilling a row of V/' holes, all carefully centered on the diagonal line by pre-marking with center-punch. First two holes drilled should be those separated by the dimension and this should be done with the :j^2 piece clamped together with the piece in lower position. Drill should be allowed to penetrate only far enough to mark centers of holes on piece ir2 as holes in this piece should be made with a No. 7 drill and tapped for a ■/^" No. 20 thread. Filing of diagonal slot in piece iri should be delayed until piece zzi is completed. This slot will be filed only wide enough to take the two '/4 " studs snugly. There must be no play whatever between studs and slot. isoieretc mrrui or Holes are tapped in base of i piece and also in top of if 2 piece to fit tripod and camera screw respectively. Camera screw for piece ztz is fitted with wing nut, properly anchored, and the threads filed off for a quarter of an inch to permit screw to ride free in the base. Photograph shows manner of attaching completed gauge to tripod and camera. Closeup shots are lined up through finder with camera in lowered position, and the shot made of the exact area seen through view-finder when camera is locked in upper position. — D. WarJ Pease, Chicago, III. Scroll Attachment Eastman titlers and those of other makes can be improved to afford moving or scroll titles by the simple expedient illustrated here. Two tabs "B" are formed of light metal or tin and soldered or riveted to top of title card holder as shown. Two metal rods are SLOTTED TO FIT B ^ kiVET CD ' ^ loLDED then fitted into title card holder as shown at "A." These serve to keep the lengthy title flat and in focus while being photographed. The spool "C" can be made from a piece of dowel or a discarded roll film spool. It should be slotted at either end so it will fit into the tabs "B." The hand crank may be formed from a piece of coat hanger wire and driven securely into the spool. To use, print title on strip of paper of required length, allowing about three inches of blank space as a leader. Insert leader into slot in spool and wind up to starting point. Title should be threaded with rods "A" in back of it. By holding title strip firmly at loose end, sufficient tension will be applied to title surface flat and at same time balance the winding action. — Henry M. Fishman, Creenbelt, Md. Holds Bulk Film Pictured is an ordinary' '4 " rubber band, cut, and rejoined with rubber cement to form a tab. This is used to keep my rolls of bulk film from unrolling. I formerly used strips of various adhesive tapes but found that in warm weather, adhesive had tendency to part from tape and adhere to film with re