Home Movies (1943)

HOME MOVIES FOR JANUARY PAGE 15 lens holder F and film gate G. The lens holder is designed in ;uch a way as to permit the lens to be moved back and forth to bring image into focus upon the ground glass screen. It is pictured below, in Fig. 2, and may be made of a heavy piece of tin or other sheet metal. One piece, bent in the form shown in sketch, will provide the complete lens holder and the means for attaching it to the upright A. An alternative for this fixture is to purchase, from a hardware or dime store, one of the metal spring broom clips. These are originally intended for purpose of holding broom and mop sticks in place in broom closet. These are easily bent to fit any size projector lens. With this fixture in place, it is ready to take the lens for the purpose of centering and focusing same upon the ground glass screen D, after which the lens holder may be securely screwed into place. As already suggested, it is unnecessary to purchase a separate lens for this purpose. The lens from your projector may be "borrowed" as needed and fitted into place to complete the viewer assembly. Of course, it is more convenient to have the lens permanently in place at all times and where this is desired, it is suggested that an odd projection lens be purchased. These are usually available from camera stores, most of whom have several old model projectors of the cheaper grade in stock which were taken in on trade for new models. The lenses from such projectors usually may be had for a dollar or two. The film gate G is constructed as follows: Base is a rectangular piece of heavy tin about \ x/2"~&zxA" fastened to the edge of the heavy upright by two screws. Cut an aperature in the gate the size of a single frame of film where it will line up with the lens. The guides are made next. Cut from tin and bend to shape in a vise. Smooth the edges with a fine file or fine emery cloth. Next, cut a piece of felt to match the face of the gate and mount the film guides to the gate using the felt as a washer to protect the film. The guides can be fastened to the gate by using small rivets made from nails. For details of film gate see sketch below. The spring arm (See B Fig 2) should be fashioned next and may be either soldered or riveted in place. It should be made so that it doesn't touch the picture area but merely rides edge of the film near the perforations to keep film in place as it passes the aperture. Tension should be just enough to hold the film in place without drag. Next mount the 1 5 watt light H back of the aperture. Bend and affix a cheap chromium spoon for a reflector as shown. The light can be elevated to the correct height by using three layers of Y4 inch wood and a piece of strap iron as shown in photo. The third layer of wood is smaller than the others and forms a glove fit for the talcum powder can light cover J. An aperture must be cut in the can to match aperture in film gate. Also, holes must be punched in top of can to allow heat to escape. The three pieces of wood forming lamp base are securely fastened together and then mounted to the editor base by one screw at the near right corner. This allows the entire lampassembly to swing away from the gate for easy threading. In other words, it is necessary to shift reel from top spindle on support A to left rewind spindle B, and vice versa during the process of viewing, editing and splicing the films. The winding cranks remain in the reels. The small light socket can be purchased complete with switch. Also, an outside switch can be mounted to control all lar.-.ps on editor. The one shown in the photo K is a 4-way switch. First position of switch lights the viewer lamp, second, the work lamp, third, turns off viewer lamp and leaves work • Sketched below are details of construction of principal parts of author Morton's editor. An innovation is method that provides for "borrowing" lens from projector to furnish element for projecting film image on ground glass of viewer. lamp on, and fourth turns all lights off. It's mighty handy but not indispensible. To provide rewinding action, a simple expedient is employed that involves attaching small cranks to the reels themselves as shown in photo. With the cranks in place, reels may be turned forward or backward. Cranks are attached to reels by means of split pins which fit into the small holes in the reels as may be seen in the picture. Where reels do not have these holes, holes may be drilled into them for the purpose. The cranks may be fashioned from strap iron, bent to shape and the split pins and handle soldered or welded into place. The splicer should be mounted on the baseboard midway betweeen the viewer and the left rewind, and with the film track centered on the line of travel of the film between the rewind and the spindles on the upright A. This allows ample room to work with the film for either cutting or splicing. On the board described here, a worklight was mounted immediately above the splicer. It is supported by a strap iron bracket, made of the same material as the bracket C supporting the viewer, and attached at the back of the baseboard. To this was attached a small candelabra light socket that takes a 7 watt 110 volt light bulb. However, the nightlights that are now available at most dime stores will serve admirable for this purpose and may be easily attached to the bracket. Also, they include a snap switch in the base and may be had for either the standard base or candelabra base lamps. Now, a few pointers on using the editor. In use, the film passes from the upper reel N, past the aperture to the lower reel in exactly the same position as in projection. The emulsion side is away from the lens and shows a clear, enlarged picture on the screen. The pictures will be transposed but this is a minor consequence in comparison to the advantages of keeping the emulsion side up, not only for film protection but to be in correct position for splicing. When the place to cut the film comes along, • Continued on Page 27 FILM GATE FIG. 2 LENS HOLDER SPLIT PINS v fC" V c REEL CRANK