Home Movies (1944)

PACE 274 I've Got I Problem!" •jf HAVE you a perplexing problem in photography, editing, titling, or processing of home movies? Then tell it to the editors. This "problem untangling" service is free to every reader of Home Movies. Where answer by mail is desired, enclose stamped addressed envelope with your letter. Q: / would like to make a title that gradually changes from black and white to full color as a transition medium between a series of black and white and Kodachrome scenes. Can you suggest a method for doing this? — S. C. D., Athens, Ga. A: Here are two methods — both requiring use of Kodachrome: Prepare the title in black and white — black letters over a white background. Shoot enough of the title so it may be quickly read. Stop camera, and apply color to the title text. In other words, paint over some of the letters with red poster color. Expose a few more frames, then paint over more of the letters — repeating this process until the entire title has been changed to color. On the screen the title will appear to change gradually from black and white to red and white. Of course any color may be used; also, the background may gradually be tinted, too. In the second method, make two copies of the title — one in black and white and the other in color. Photograph the black and white title first, (using color film, of course), and fade out at the end for a dissolve. Wind back film in camera to beginning of fade, insert colored copy of title holder and photograph it by beginning with a fadein. On the screen, the black and white title will dissolve into a full color title. Q: When making 16mm. mattes for trick work, what developing formula is best for extreme contrast necessary? — C. F., Mitchell, S. D. A: Eastman's D-9 is satisfactory for this work. However, it must be used strictly according to directions and exposure must be exact, otherwise veiled whites and fogginess will result. Q: A brother cinebug, who obtains good results by the met/x>d, recommended that I use a plumb bob for centering my camera on a vertical titler. However, although we both use the same make cameras, my titles continue to be off center. How do you account for this? — S. M., Tyler, Tex. A: The most important thing in cen tering camera with a plumb bob is first to make sure that camera is absolutely vertical in the titler. This can be assured by checking two sides of camera with a spirit level. This done, the plumb bob will indicate exact centering of title card with camera lens. Consider that the camera mounted on an angle of the slightest degree affects the field area of the lens increasingly in ratio to distance of object (title card) from lens, then the necessity of accurately positioning camera in titler will be more apparent. Q: In order to save photofloods 1 have been cutting down the voltage with a Variac (a variable transformer) to about 85 volts. Using my Weston meter and positive film, the results are under-exposed, even after opening lens to compensate. — S.L.P., Enid, Okla. A: Photofloods emit a very white light, high in ultra violet and ideal for positive film. With the reduction in voltage, photoflood light becomes yellowish. Positive film, being less sensitive to yellow, must be given more exposure to compensate. Try double or triple the exposure called for by meter. O: Does the bichromate bleach used in most reversing formulas keep well? — G. S., Mason City, Iowa. A: Yes, the bleach keeps well, but the older it becomes the more tendency it has to leave yellow stains. However, it is so inexpensive to make that a fresh solution should always be used. Q: How would you recommend photographing 2x2 Kodachrome transparencies with an %mm. camera on Kodachrome?— A. J. McM., Brooklyn, N. Y. A: Best method is to photograph slide direct using 13 diopter auxiliary lens on camera 3 inches away from slide. Illumination should be by photoflood in rear of opal or ground glass, with the opal glass at least 6 inches behind slide. Another method is to project slide from rear on panel of fine quality opal glass. Slide should be projected as small a« can be covered with camera lens, to conserve illumination strength and loss of detail from greater enlargement. HOME MOVIES FOR |ULY Q: What is a good method of making moonlight scenes on Kodachrome? — G. H. P., Sandusky, Ohio. A: There are several methods, one being to simply under-expose about two stops in daylight. Another way is to under-expose Type A film outdoors without the corrective filter. Also, expose in sunlight correctly then dye the film with black dye to correct density. Latter method gives true color while under-exposed scenes tend to give unnatural and distorted color. Q: / have some still pictures of my little daughter taken before we owned a movie camera. Is there any way I can get these "still" pictures onto mot ic film?— I. M., Philadelphia, Pa. A: Place the snapshots in a movie titler and photograph the same as though making movie titles. If the pictures are not all the same size they can be rephotographed to size to fit titler frame, or auxiliary lenses of different strengths can be employed before camera lens to cover the exact area required. Q: I'i c always prided myself on keeping my cine camera and other equipment in tip top shape. Lately, the finish of the leather covering of my camera appears quite dull. What can I do to restore its lustre? — M. /., Orlando, Fla. A: An excellent leather conditioner can be made up as follows: Lanolin 50 parts Castor Oil 40 parts Sod. Sterate 5 parts Japan wax 5 parts Rub in well into leather and polish with a soft cloth. O: Can you tell me the exact angles covered by a \zx/zmm. f/3.5 i -millimeter camera lens? — /. B., Littleton, Colo. A: Horizontal 19.7°. Vertical 14.70. Q: In trying animating small objects such as you described in a recent issue, I cannot get the action smooth on the screen. I have been using strings to move i»3 title letters instead of animating by single frame exposures, but I don't like the jerky action. When I move the strings faster to smooth the action it is too fast. Can you suggest a remedy? — P. M. T ., Lawrence, Kansas. A: Yes, film the title in slow motion. This will permit moving the strings fast enough to be smooth, but the slow motion will slow it down enough upon projection to make the action appear quite normal. Remember to give added exposure to compensate for the decrease resulting from running the camera faster.