Home Movies (1947)

110 HOME MOVIES FOR FEBRUARY "And what a sweetheart it is! Especially on those photo-hikes where the lighter the load I carry, the better. Or in a crowd, where a guy just can't set up a tripod. My SPORTPOD is rigid and strong, light as a Malacca cane . . . it's the handiest piece of equipment I have!" The SPORTPOD is a 3-section tripod leg, with cap-protected camera screw. Eliminates vertical jiggle when extended to ground, provides "3-point support" telescoped and braced against body. Height, extended, 58"; telescoped, 2IV2"; weight, 15 02. Send (or this FREE Brochure on the Complete QUICKSET line QUICK-SET, INC. 1739 Diverse/ Parkway Chicago 14, Illinois Please send me without obligolion a copy of your detailed brochure on QUICK-SET Tripods. Name AddressCity 1 use the following cameras _State_ How To Make Copies Of Your Films . . . • Continued from Page 87 light reaching the positive film on its spindle. When ready to print, the printing light is snapped on, the projector motor started and the two films started through the film gate together. The original will naturally operate by itself as will the positive film feed reel. The lower reel on the upright, on which the exposed positive film will be taken up, must be turned by hand as the film goes through the projector. It is essential, of course, to determine the correct density of light to use for a successful duplicating job. As indicated above, two or more different types of bulbs can be tried; also, speed of the projector can be varied to give different exposure intervals. At this point, it is advisable to run off a few tests, then develop or process them yourself, and screen the duplicated test strips to determine the correct density. You may have to experiment with both the lamps and the projector speed in order to arrive at the norm required for successful results; but once you have determined this, you are generally set for any duplicating job you may undertake thereafter. After the two films have run completely through the projector, you will have your original on one reel and the duplicate on raw film stock on another. The next step is processing the film, and this you may also do yourself. Processing of positive film is comparatively easy and consists primarily of four steps: developing to the negative image, bleaching, clearing and redeveloping to the positive image with several intermediate washings completing the procedure. Washing should be done where running water is handy and if no regular darkroom is available, the bathroom or laundry washtub may be used. Some means of holding the film during processing is necessary, and a simple homemade open rack made of wood with separators to help keep film coils apart is convenient for the shorter lengths of film. The one illustrated in Fig. 6 holds up to 12 feet of film and may be handled in an 8 by lo tray. Larger open racks can, of course, be made to hold more film, but will require larger trays and considerably more processing solutions. A wooden stand holds the rack while loading film from the reel. Short lengths of i6mm. film may also be processed in certain kinds of film tanks that accomodate different sizes of "still" film as in Fig. 7. For longer film lengths the "drum" type processing reel is to be preferred. The drum requires no greater amount of solution than racks that hold less film. The one pictured in Fig. 8 is homemade and holds 30 feet of film. The circular ends are plywood, the crossbars plywood strips, and the axle a I/2 inch dowel stick. Pieces of match sticks provide the film separators on the crossbars. The slots at the top of the two end uprights are for resting the drum while solutions in the tank or tray are being changed. In winding film on either the drum or racks, the two ends of the film should be held by rubber bands looped through punched holes in the film ends and fastened to the cross bars with either a short piece of wire or a thumbtack. This is to take up the slack in the film that occurs as they loosen in becoming wet. Homemade processing racks and drums can be made water and chemical proof by using one of the special paints for this purpose obtainable at photo dealers. Although a more or less messy job, a good substitute is to coat the parts with melted paraffine. There are many reversal formulae for home processing of film, especially in developers. Even the well known D-72 may be used with success. Ready mixed solutions in powder form are also obtainable from photo dealers. Following is the procedure and formulae I have been using with good results: FIRST DEVELOPER Metol Sodium Sulphite Hydroquinone Sodium Carbonate Potassium Bromide Water to make 90 gr 600 gr. 240 gr. 600 gr. 90 gr. 2 qts. The approximate time for the first development is from 5 to 6 minutes at 65 degrees. Film should be developed until it is black, almost opaque. The highlights on the back or glossy side of the film should be as black as on the face or emulsion side. When development is complete, it should be washed for at least 3 minutes in running water. Five minutes will be even better. The next step is the bleach, mixed as follows: Potassium Bichromate Sulphuric Acid Water to make -150 gr 10 cc. 2 qts. Bleaching time is about 3 minutes and this operation removes the developed image. It should be carried out until the highlights are transparent. When bleaching is complete, the film is again washed in running water for 3 minutes and cleared in the following bath: Sodium Sulphite Water to make 90 gr. ..2 qts. Three minutes in this solution is