Home Movies (1951)

MOVIE TOOLS for editing... A i i Home-made movielon from an old prejector Synchronizer has 2 to 4 sprockets mounted on a single shaft — a feeder counter coupled on right. Edit and cut any film, with ease and accuracy using simple home-made equipment By Arthur H. Smith Victor Sound Head mounted on panel THE amateur movie maker is three people; a producer, director, and cameraman. How he handles these three jobs is shown by the film he turns out — later he adds 'film editor' and still late, 'script writer' to these basic three. Finally if he advances further he becomes a sound recordist. To make a really extensive motion picture t'.e serious amateur may delegate some of these functions to others whom he recognizes as having the ability to handle them. In this case he may keep the job of producer-director. As a rule, however, the film cutting is handled by the amateur himself because it is here that the final form of the mental images that prompted the original scrip are shaped and formed into the finished product. To do a good job of film editing involves the use of certain tools. The more good tools available, the easier it will be on the film editor and the film. As a rule the amateur does not spend money on a work print so it is necessary to cut the original. This is not good motion picture practice but expense is the prime problem in amateur movies. The larger tools, too, are rather expensive and many amateurs have made their own tools in order to cut costs. Especially in the realm of sound, do certain tools make their use mandatory and these are expensive to buy. Basically what are the tools of the amateur film cutter? First, a pair of scissors and the will to use them. Second, a film splicer to make clean, strong splices after the film has been cut. Third, a pair of rewinds to handle the film. Advancing into what might be called the secondary line of tools is the film viwer which is not outside the reach of the average pocketbook. Another items is the trim basket. This is a frame in which is suspended a well laundered, lintless cloth. At the top of the frame are pegs, on which may be fastened the front end of scenes in numerical order. The film is dropped into the basket for protection. Such a device may very easily be constructed by using items generally found in the home workshop. On the surface of the work bench or editing table should be mounted a ground glass under which an electric light globe will provide illumination. In this way film may very easily be held over the lighted glass for quick inspection. A jeweler's glass is an handy tool to use with this ground glass. After a sequence is cut it is sometimes necessary to check it for action. This is called getting the "feel" of the action. By running it through the film viewer this may be accomplished to a point but it is sometimes difficult to judge the exact speed of the film to determine the timing. The next logical step is to have a projector handy upon which to run the film. This involves threading the film in the projector and results in much handling, because constant contact with projector parts puts scratches in the film. The answer is to have a device that runs under power at the correct speed. This device should be quickly and easily threaded — preferably gate threading only. A means should be had to control the speed of the film and reverse its direction. Such a device in commercial film editing is the Moviola. These cost from $300.00 up, depending upon the features incorporated in their construction. One way to construct a how-made "Moviola" is by using an old projector. The one shown in the photograph was made by using an early model Keystone projector which was purchased for $5.00. This was mounted on a wooden kitchen stool. Two frames from discarded picture frames were fastened front and rear from the stool and pillow cases were held in place for holding the film lengths. A jeweler's glass fitted into the lens mount enlarges the frame image. It is possible to place a short focus lens in the mount and by suitable mirror arrangement a rear projected image on a small screen could be obtained. Switches were mounted by drilling two holes in the lamp house. One switch is an on-off switch and the other is a double pole, double throw • See "EDITING" on Page 257 342