Home Movies (1954)

Record Details:

Something wrong or inaccurate about this page? Let us Know!

Thanks for helping us continually improve the quality of the Lantern search engine for all of our users! We have millions of scanned pages, so user reports are incredibly helpful for us to identify places where we can improve and update the metadata.

Please describe the issue below, and click "Submit" to send your comments to our team! If you'd prefer, you can also send us an email to mhdl@commarts.wisc.edu with your comments.




We use Optical Character Recognition (OCR) during our scanning and processing workflow to make the content of each page searchable. You can view the automatically generated text below as well as copy and paste individual pieces of text to quote in your own work.

Text recognition is never 100% accurate. Many parts of the scanned page may not be reflected in the OCR text output, including: images, page layout, certain fonts or handwriting.

build a light CARRY ALL By H. H. REECH The modern trend is toward portability, and light weight and the same goes for your movie equipment. There are some good movie-lights and bar-lights on the market but I found most of the equipment a little cumbersome and priced somewhat higher than I intended to spend and I set out to remedy the situation. The first thing I acquired was a nice little carrying case as seen in Fig. 4. • See CARRY-ALL on Page 79 mm TRICKS Any 8mm or 16mm camera can duplicate effect below by multiple exposure. Image in tenter was taken using about one half stop less than normal. Film ivas wound back in the camera and other tour exposures were made, one alter the other — backwinding film for each one. If you want something different in the way of effects, then try double, triple and multiple exposure. Any scene which includes more than two exposures should be designated as a ""multiple exposure". But multiple exposure can be achieved in two ways with entirely different effects. Let s look into them and see what can be applied to our own shooting. First of all, both types of multiple exposure have one thing in common — both involve running the film through the camera more than once. The first type of multiple exposure is the Superimposed Shot. Here, one shot is exposed directly on top of another so that part of the scene is transparent and ghostly. The second type is the Split Screen. This one involves the job of covering part of the lens, leaving the remainder uncovered. Then the first part is uncovered and the other parts masked. This method allows one actor to play two parts in the same frame, at the same time. Both methods involve backwinding that is. backwinding the film in the camera after the first exposure has been made. Since both types of shots involve this chore, it is imperative to work out a fool-proof system of backwinding so that an accuate effect can be obtained. Simplest way to do this is to mark the beginning of the shot, then make the shot. After that the film is returned to the original mark and then exposed again. All this should be done in a darkroom, or else a changing bag should be used. (A changing bag is a cloth gimmick containing two holes on each side. Film is placed in this light-proof bag, and then the operators hands are inserted so that the work can be done in complete safety. Cost: $5 to $8 at most camera stores.) Best way to make a simple multiple exposure shot is to use the beginning • See CAMERA TRICKS on Page 80 59