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audience will see. If you increase the bottom loop by eight frames, you can intentionally delay starting and stopping your recording by one-third of a second (at 24 f.p.s.) or half a second (at 16 f.p.s.). Of course, on playback you will not obtain the correct synchronism until you return the bottom loop to its normal size.
Splicing
In general, you should edit your films before sending them off for striping, i.e., the application of the magnetic stripe. The stripe will then continue over the splice and there will be little or no disturbance in the sound recorded later.
If the film breaks, or if you use the loop system of recording just described, you will have to splice the film after striping. Here it is advisable to remove the stripe, as well as the emulsion, from the surfaces to be cemented. There will remain a substantially continuous stripe, nevertheless, and you can record on this satisfactorily. However, be careful not to let film cement spread on to the stripe or it will tend to flake off.
Removing Clicks
Should an old splice break, you will want to remake the splice without making a new recording. You may then be puzzled to hear a click as the splice passes the playback head. This will probably be due to local magnetisation of the track by magnetic parts of the splicer. Either use a splicer free of steel and iron, or else you must have the offending parts demagnetised periodically. Your watch repairer can probably do this for a nominal charge.
Another kind of click is that produced when you switch from "playback" to "record", or vice versa. Whether clicks arise from this source or from the splicer, they are equally offensive to the critical ear.
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