How to add sound to amateur films (1954)

Record Details:

Something wrong or inaccurate about this page? Let us Know!

Thanks for helping us continually improve the quality of the Lantern search engine for all of our users! We have millions of scanned pages, so user reports are incredibly helpful for us to identify places where we can improve and update the metadata.

Please describe the issue below, and click "Submit" to send your comments to our team! If you'd prefer, you can also send us an email to mhdl@commarts.wisc.edu with your comments.




We use Optical Character Recognition (OCR) during our scanning and processing workflow to make the content of each page searchable. You can view the automatically generated text below as well as copy and paste individual pieces of text to quote in your own work.

Text recognition is never 100% accurate. Many parts of the scanned page may not be reflected in the OCR text output, including: images, page layout, certain fonts or handwriting.

Provided your shots are short and the speed stability of your camera and recorder are good, you can use tape for the initial recording of lip-synchronised sound even without any synchronisation other than the clapper board. The governor in a clockwork camera is not intended to provide the accuracy of speed control required for this purpose. You must therefore drive your camera at exactly 24 f.p.s. by a synchronous motor connected to the A.C. mains. The tape recorder must also run from the same supply and is conveniently controlled by the same switch. Before shooting begins, run through a whole reel of tape to warm up the recorder thoroughly. Record only on tape which has been re-wound several times at least a week in advance. At each shot, adopt the following procedure: 1. Start the camera and recorder together and allow just over one second for speed stabilisation. 2. Switch to "record". 3. Use the clapper board. 4. Shoot the action. 5. Stop the camera and recorder together. 6. Switch to "playback". 7. Re-wind a length of tape equivalent to just under one second. This last operation, together with the delayed switching to "record", removes from each recording most of the dead time allowed for speed stabilisation. It would be a needless extravagance to transfer such material to the film. The re-recording is done in a commercial studio, but it is imperative that you use your own recorder for playback and that you again warm it up thoroughly. Re-recording must be done in a forward direction : running in reverse will not reproduce the original tape speed. For the same reason, it is important not to transfer the tape to another spool, to add or remove tape, or even repeatedly play back the tape before re-recording. 131