How to add sound to amateur films (1954)

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running your projector in a blimp. This is merely a box with sides braced to prevent "drumming" and lined with felt or some other sound-absorbing material. The projection beam passes through a window opposite the lens and a door at the side provides access for manipulation of the controls. Since a blimp is usually made only a little larger than the projector, it will overheat unless you make generous provision for ventilation. You must therefore provide wide channels through which the projector fan can draw in and expel a current of cooling air. On the other hand, these channels must be so arranged that the projector noise does not escape to any serious degree. If you succeed in this respect, you will find the channels are also light-proof and you can remove the top of your lamphouse in order to assist ventilation. The relative quietness of a good sound-film projector is due largely to its being built into a blimp which serves also as a carrying case. It is instructive to study one of these machines carefully and see how ample ventilation is combined with sound-proofing and light-trapping. When you use either a blimp or a projector booth it is usually best to stand the projector behind the audience to isolate the residual noise as far as possible. Considerations of perspective and screen brightness limit the size of screen you should attempt to fill. So to keep the picture down to the right size in spite of a long throw, use a long-focus lens on the projector. Speaker Position When setting up your equipment for a show, consider carefully which is the best position for the loudspeaker. The majority of library sound-films include lip-synchronised sound (p. 129). When you are showing such a film, therefore, the sound should appear to come from the screen so that the voices seemingly come from the actors in the picture. Whatever type of film you show, you will hold the attention of the audience better if the sound seems to originate from the picture. 146