How to cartoon for amateur films (1958)

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Usually a light red reproduces well as a middle tone. Start by mixing a sufficient quantity for the whole scene, and keep it well stirred. Brush it on quickly, using as few brush strokes as possible and being very sparing with colour. While it is wet, blot it quickly with clean blotting paper. Better results will be obtained with small areas of tone than large ones. If you make a mistake, don't attempt to go over the space again. It is better to scrap the whole drawing. But sometimes the space can be cut out, and the tone painted on another small piece of paper which is stuck on behind. Finishing the Scenes The next stage is to decide where the sheets of paper have to be cut to build up the complete scene. This presents some fascinating problems and is unrivalled as an exercise in ingenuity. Probably the only solution to some particularly tricky problems is to trace a few drawings, or even one complete level of animation, on cell. In this case the colour that has been used for the half tone on the paper drawings will have to be accurately matched and used for filling in the cell. Often white paint will need darkening slightly with grey to make it match the white of the paper. Poster colour to which gum has been added will adhere to cell long enough to be photographed if it is handled very carefully, but it is worth while to go to the trouble of painting in oil colour if very many cells are used. In cutting paper drawings, don't make the fatal error of cutting off the peg holes. Cut each drawing in a slightly different place. Then, if the paper cuts do show slightly on the film, it will not be so obvious. But with care paper cuts can be completely invisible, if the lighting and exposure in photography are correct (p. 108). An important point to remember is that the number of levels of cell used must remain the same throughout the 99