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February, 1935
The INTERNATIONAL PHOTOGRAPHER
Nine
compound is Kodallc made by the Eastman Kodak Co., which was described in a former installment of this department.
The Edwal Laboratories have recently announced a fine grain sulphite in which the small amount of residual sodium carbonate, present in most photographic sulphite, has been removed, and also the amount of iron present is reduced to a minimum. While the impurity iron in sulphite is of no import when the developer is mixed and used freshly, it is apt to give rise to staining if the developer gets old. Most photographic sulphite is a byproduct of alkali fusions although some manufacturers who put out a superior product make it directly from sodium carbonate and sulphurous acid. In either case there is a small amount of residual sodium carbonate in the sulphite which raises the pH of the developing solution. The Edwal Laboratories remove this small amount of sodium carbonate from their sulphite.
It would be wise for the miniature camera photographer to try these new compounds for he most certainly will find that their use will manifest itself in improved fashion.
Winter Scene. Taken on DuPont Panchromatic film using a 3x filter,
developed for low contrast in Paraphenylene-diamine — Clycin, and
printed on P. M. C. Bromide.
New Agfa Films: Agfa Ansco have recently announced that they will have available in the near future three new films for the miniature camera use, in the 35 mm. size. The first is an extreme fine grain film known as Finopan. It is slower than Agfa Superpan, giving more brilliant results and has a very evenly balanced sensitivity throughout the visible spectrum. An InfraRed film will also be supplied which is not sensitized to any visible color except red. Its speed is said to be approximately that of Fine-Grain Plenachrome Film in daylight ; but this is merely a rough indication, for no advantage can be gained by using such a film without the proper filters. With a light red or deep orange filter, daylight exposures are about 1/20 second at f :4.5 to f :6.3, and with the use of infra-red filters the above exposures must be multiplied from 10 to 20 times.
The third new film to be introduced by Agfa is a Superpan Reversible film. This will be quite a boon to those who make many photographs to be used solely to make film strips for projection, the intermediate printing of the positive being eliminated. With this film the exposures are made, the film developed, after which the negative image is dissolved away, the unaffected emulsion exposed to light and the film again developed, resulting in a positive. The film is of the fine grain type, and the tendency toward fineness of grain is also inherent in the reversal process because the larger grains are first developed and then removed, leaving only the finer grains to form the ultimate image.
By Augustus
WOLFMAN
This film is rated as having extreme latitude, but nevertheless in the reversal process we are limited when making the positive, for we are working with whatever emulsion is left after the developed negative is dissolved away. It is best to employ a good exposure meter, obtaining correctly exposed films and uniform results.
Embossing Prints: It is often stated that, "The print is the final thing by which we are judged," and we should therefore take pains to "dress" up our prints so as to enhance them as much as possible. One method of greatly improving the appearance of a print is to frame it and a simple, unobtrusive means of accomplishing this is to emboss the print. The print is made on a large paper, leaving plenty of border space, as a 6"x9" print on a ll"xl4" paper, or a 5"x7" print on a 10"xl2" paper. The embossing line is made about Y% inch from the top and sides and about y% inch from the bottom, a form being cut which is about the same thickness as the print — an old print will serve the purpose admirably. If the picture area of the print is 6"x9" and the above measurements for the embossed line are selected, the form would be 6%"xl0".
An expedient will be necessary for adjusting the form and print for which may be used a piece of plate glass with a light underneath. The form is placed on the glass, the print placed over it and adjusted, and then a print embosser is run over the back of the print following the edge of the form. The embossing tool can be obtained at almost any photographic supply store. In lieu of that a tool for this purpose can be improvised at home such as the handle of a tooth brush.
An extremely simple means of embossing prints is to use a special contraption such as the Fassetto Embossing Tool. This apparatus obviates the use of a form. The print is merely placed in it face up and the embossing tool run along the proper edge.
Before prints are subjected to embossing, it is necessary to slightly soften them to obtain smooth die-sunk lines. For this purpose the prints are moistened on the back with a 50% solution of alcohol — I have found the ordinary 70% rubbing alcohol sold at drug stores to serve well. The prints are then placed in a press for about 20 minutes, after which they are embossed. It is surprising to what extent the appearance of a print is improved by employing this principle — making it on large paper, thereby leaving a wide border and then embossing the print.
With the usual easel it may be difficult to make 5"x7" or 6"x9" prints on 10"xL2" or ll"xl4" papers. It is best in such cases to choose a definite picture size and make masks which will accommodate the sizes of the papers used. I have found that masks in the form of an envelope in which the paper fits snugly serves the purpose well. As I have mentioned before, much can be contributed to the appearance of a print by "dressing" it up properly.
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