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FINE FEATHERS 185
an elastic band. To my horror they were advertised as "Adolphe Menjou Ties." The price was twenty-five cents!
Hank claims I turned white, and I know he had to restrain me from going in and personally removing that window display. My lawyer tracked the manufacturer to his lair and discovered that he was not only putting out bow ties under my name but was also manufacturing a misbegotten garment that he called an "Adolphe Menjou Shirt." We threw the book at the fellow and collected damages.
Although I had dozens of suits made by London and Continental tailors, I found that Eddie Schmidt was as fine a creative tailor as any of them. Most of my experiments in clothing were made with the assistance of the elder Schmidt.
One of the first things we tried was taking the buckram out of the lining of coats so that they could be draped with a little fullness over the chest and the shoulder blades. It took a long time to make this style popular, but now one seldom sees anything but a draped coat. We also narrowed the sleeves of coats and eliminated the creases in them. Then we spread the top buttons on double-breasted suits so that the shoulder line was broadened; and we tried a number of other innovations that have become standard in men's clothes.
I'm afraid I used to make a nuisance of myself at Eddie Schmidt's shop. I kept telling him that he couldn't afford to take customers who didn't look well in their clothes. After all, the most important assets of a tailor are well-dressed customers.
There was one friend of mine in particular whom I had sent to Schmidt who always looked terrible. His sleeves were invariably too long and his coats were too snug. I discovered that this fellow's wife always went with him for his fittings and bossed the job! Schmidt and his cutter were two of the finest designers in the business, but my friend's wife was telling them how to make men's clothes. I am wholeheartedly in favor of equal rights for women, but not in a men's tailoring shop.