Motion Picture Magazine (Feb-Jul 1920)

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Michigan Ave., Chicago, 111. <A Branch of Susanna Cocroft's Worh\ Costumin g {Continued coloring, it at least has richness of tone. White is the only shade that does not take kindly to photography. It appears so harsh and glaring in the picture, that as a rule pale yellow or pale blue, or even a light shade of pink is substituted. Therefore, every costuming company has light yellow or blue uniforms on hand, and maids' aprons and caps of the same shade. Even the dress shirt of the leading man is thus camouflaged. It is to be noted that all those costumes, (they are used for extras, mostly) are the property of the costuming company, and are only rented for a time to whatever film concern may need them. Not so the costumes of the principals. While they supply their own modern garb, fancy or historical costumes are made to order for them, and no trouble or expense is spared. The director or his assistant to whose duties it may fall to produce a costume play, calls on the costumer, and together they consult such eminent authorities as Racinet, Fairholt and others. Each costuming house owns a comprehensive collection of such books. Should the desired costume not be found in them, why then the public library or the museums are the sources drawn upon. When at last the proper design has been made and executed, and we see it on the screen, we can rest assured that it is an authentic reproduction of the costume of some far-off country or some long-forgotten period, and not the product of a designer's fancy. Therefore, aside from their dramatic worth such pictures as "The Fall of Babylon," or "The Birth of a Race" have an educational value all their own. "The Fall of Babylon," Griffith's super-spectacle, is a true picture of the dim and long-forgotten past; "The Copperhead," a new Paramount picture, gives an authentic portrait of life in the middle of the last century. That the spectator is able to forget the present and live again in the bygone days may be due to inspired acting, and careful directing, but a large share of the honors are due to clever costuming, without which the play would not be convincing, and the illusion spoilt. So let us give credit where credit is deserved. And now a few words about the much harassed and never appreciated, but wholly indispensable wardrobe mistress, in this case the presiding genius of the Famous Players dressing rooms. She is — well — middle-aged, a wee bit querulous yet good-natured, also very competent and very, very energetic. And she could tell lots of interesting things about costuming, and of directors and stars, for who should know their foibles better than she? But then, she does not gossip, at least, not much. All we were able to get out of her was this : "The directors? A pretty fussy bunch, I'll say. Go to untold trouble to get a certain costume and use it once. Then it goes to the stock room and is hauled out maybe once more for a mob scene. But that finishes it, for no director will use the same setting or costume twice, yet everything has got to be of the best." "Oh, the work is interesting, all right, but mark my words, dearie, when anything goes wrong, why, it's the wardrobe lady that's to blame. Now, we have a gorgeous filet de Renaissance table-cloth, and Mr. Fitzmaurice wanted it for a real classy wedding-breakfast in an Elsie Ferguson production. The table was all set with cloth and china, and everything, but, somehow, the wedding scene was de from page 45) layed, and so we just covered it with some newspapers and let it stand. But along comes another director. He spies the table-cloth, helps himself to it, and from that moment on, why, it aint a table-cloth at all — but a bedspread. Of course, the blame falls on the wardrobe lady. "Against the stars I have no kick coming. They are nice enough. The women? Well, let me tell you that Ethel Clayton would rather wear an evening gown than just shirtwaist and skirt and one of those tweed overcoats, but then, who wouldn't, with her looks? "You ask, which is more particular about their costumes and make-up, the male or female stars? Oh, well — I'd hate to say what I think outright. I'll let you judge for yourself. When 'Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde' was being made, the star, Mr. Barrymore, had to have a spider costume for one scene. Well, the costume was duly made, but we simply could not suit him with the fitting, so, when the time Game for him to wear the costume, why, he had to be sewed into it, so that it would fit like a glove, and no wrinkle would show. And, who is to do that if not the wardrobe lady? "But the queerest thing I ever did was make gold crowns for the rats in Marguerite Clark's picture, 'The Seven Swans.' Some job, you may believe me, and we had to fit the little beasts, too. Oh, well, the life of a wardrobe lady, etc . . . ! But it's all in the day's work." The American Britisher {Continued from page 47) screen work at one and the same time. "One has no time to live doing both," he explained. "We none of us know just how long the pleasure and enjoyment of the world is to be ours. I think I'll take my fun from day to day and be sure of it." He is much younger than he looks on the screen and well-groomed as Englishmen are well-groomed — and he is never failing in his diplomacy. He followed mysuit and ordered icecream for dessert — ice-cream with a delicious chocolate sauce poured over it — another not-at-all British act. And again he assured me that ice-cream even on a cold winter's day in any hotel or restaurant was another thing keeping him in America. He does not live in the city, but out on Long Island where he "sort of gets away from it all, dont you know," — he would live out of town and I should say that it is in something of a gabled country house, with open fireplaces in most of the rooms, scores of books, pieces of old furniture? — with well-trained servants — and there would be great dogs too — dogs of the chase. Altogether an American Britisher is an excellent combination. FULL BLOOM Friend — That scenario writer says he is a budding genius. Editor — I have seen the fruits of his labor; he's a blooming liar. MISUNDERSTOOD Movie Fan — What do you think of installment pictures? Notafan — Why, I couldn't stand for the collectors calling every month. 102