The motion picture projectionist (Oct 1927-Sept 1928)

October, 1927 The Motion Picture Projectionist 43 projectors are authorized for use by non-professional operators and with slow-burning or non-inflammable stock, standard width, without booths. Local ordinances and electrical codes should be consulted at all times. The following contribute to rapid film deterioration and subsequent projection difficulties : Dirt accumulations. Worn sprocket teeth. Too strong tension. Poorly adjusted idlers. Misalignment of working parts. Surplus of oil and grit. Accumulation of loose emulsion and wax. Careless rewinding, packing, shipping, and storing. Receipt, Storage, and Shipment Immediately on receipt of the film program it is always desirable to rewind the program, inspect the films, and if necessary, clean them. The exchange tries at all times to keep the films in the best possible condition, but occasionally a reel will "slip through the hands" of an inspector who may be a bit careless. Film should always be kept in metal containers when not in the projector or iruthe process of inspection. All film will dry out and become brittle if exposed to the air for long periods. "Safety" or non-inflammable stock dries out very quickly. If the film is dry and brittle it may be made much more pliable by winding loosely and placing it in a human atmosphere. A basement, far removed from fire or furnace, a cellar or cave, make excellent storage rooms. Sometimes a few blotters containing moisture placed in the metal film box will prove advantageous. Humidor cans, one type of which is illustrated in Figure 14, are for sale by dealers. A solution of eucalyptol, camphor, menthol, and glycerine is reputed to soften even the most brittle and least pliable film. Extreme care must be exercised in any case so that the moisture does not come in direct contact with the emulsion. When films lose their original pliability it is difficult to bring that quality back, permanently, by any artificial means. For that reason film should be kept in a humid atmosphere at all times or inside tightly closed metal containers. *No film should be left exposed at any time. The small pieces which accumulate during repair operations should never be permitted to accumulate on the bench or on the floor. They should be deposited in a tight metal box and removed to some safe place outside of the building where they may be destroyed. If handled with the same precautions as are necessary for safe handling of gasoline, kerosene, oil, ether, celluloid toilet articles or even the rolls of film used in a camera or Kodak, the danger involved with motion picture film is small. A bucket full of sand, wet sawdust, 3 chemical fire extinguisher or even a wet woolen blanket should be kept handy to be used in case of an emergency. Following the exhibition, film should be replaced on exchange reels, the film retained by securely fastened reel bands, and each reel immediately placed in the metal film container. Removal of Oil and Dirt If for any reason a surplus of oil accumulates on the projector it is quite likely that some will fall on the film, and tend to hold any dust or dirt that may come in contact with it. This oil and dirt may deposit around sprockets, in the idlers, in the film track, and at the aperture opening, and may interfere with perfect projection or damage the film itself. There are several simple film cleaners on the market that may be bought at small cost. In the absence of a film cleaner, a soft lintless cloth held in contact with both surfaces of the film will serve very acceptably. It is quite important to use clean cloths frequently as old ones become soiled. If soiled cloths are used there is a likelihood that rain streaks will be produced. A stiffbristled tooth brush may be used to remove dirt from the parts of the projector. New film is said to be "green." In order that it will pass through the projector satisfactorily, the film must be waxed. When a new film is projected, if it is not waxed, an accumulation gathers on the tension shoes immediately in front of the aperture, and on other surfaces. This substance becomes very hard and difficult to remove. It may be romoved by using alcohol as a solvent, or scraping the accumulation away with a coin. Never use a knife because steel will scratch the surfaces. Dirt deposits, scratches, and dirt all tend to injure the film. The photographic quality may not be injured but the film surrounding the sprocket holes may be scratched quite badly. Keeping a projector clean is an important task of the projectionist. Splicing "Safety" or Non-inflammable Stock "Safety" or non-inflammable stock has certain properties that tend to make it, in many cases, somewhat difficult to splice. The two parts of the film should be prepared in exactly the same way as indicated above. However, in this case, it will aid materially if the celluloid side of the film that is to be used in the splice, could be abraded or scraped slightly. When splicing this type of film use cement that has been prepared for both inflammable and non-inflammable film. Another aid is to add a very small amount of glacial acetic acid to the bottle of cement. A few drops added to a small bottle of cement will suffice. When splicing "safety" film it is necessary to work very quickly. Remember not to use too much cement. 'In the Projectionists' hands is the power to make or mar the pictures they receive."— Thomas A. Edison