The motion picture projectionist (Nov 1931-Jan 1933)

20 Motion Picture Projectionist April, 1932 Fig. 3. Removing Emulsion With a Razor Blade 1/8 or 3/16 inch there is a tendency for it to dry out and buckle slightly. If the splice is very wide it will cause trouble when the film passes through the projector. Be sure that the splice is securely cemented before continuing the inspection. This is very, very important. Splicing "Safety" Stock "Safety" or non-inflammable stock has certain properties that tend to make it, in many cases, somewhat difficult to splice. The two parts of the film should be prepared in exactly the same way as indicated above. However, in this case, it will aid materially if the celluloid side of the film that is to be used in the splice could be abraded or scraped slightly. When splicing this type of film use cement that has been prepared for both inflammable and non-inflammable film. Another aid is to add a very small amount of glacial acetic acid to the bottle of cement. A few drops added to a small bottle of cement will suffice. When splicing "safety" film it is necessary to work very quickly. Remember not to use too much cement. If for any reason a surplus of oil accumulates on the projector it is quite likely that some will fall on the film, and tend to hold any dust or dirt that may come in contact with it. This oil and dirt may deposit around sprockets, in the idlers, in the film track, and at the aperture opening, and may interfere with perfect projection or damage the film itself. There are several simple film cleaners on the market that may be bought at small cost. In the absence of a film cleaner a soft lintless cloth held in contact with both surfaces of the film will serve very acceptably. It is quite important to use clean cloths frequently as old ones become soiled. If soiled cloths are used there is a likelihood that rain streaks will be produced. A stiff-bristled tooth brush may be used to remove dirt from the parts of the projector. New film is said to be "green." In order that it will pass through the projector satisfactorily, the film must be waxed along the sprocket holes on the emulsion side of the film. When a new film is projected, if it is not waxed, an accumulation gathers on the tension shoes immediately in front of the aperture and on the other surfaces. This substance becomes very hard and difficult to remove. It may be removed by using alcohol as a solvent, or scraping the accumulation away with a coin. Never use a knife because steel will scratch the surfaces. Dirt deposits, scratches and dirt all tend to injure the film. The photographic quality may not be injured, but the film surrounding the sprocket holes may be scratched quite badly. Keeping a projector clean is an important task of the projectionist. Tension on Film Many films have been injured by too strong tension on the take-up reel. Some projectors are designed so that the belt driving the take-up runs just tightly enough to turn the reel. Such devices require frequent adjustments lest for any reason the belt becomes too loose or too tight. Other machines are provided with devices which enable the tension to be regulated by a small screw adjustment. In either case if the tension is too loose the reel may fail to turn when it becomes nearly filled. If the tension is too tight there may be numerous breaks while the first few hundred feet are being projected. Loss of the lower loop may occur. Great damage may be caused to the sprocket holes themselves. The small radial lines that extend from the four corners of the sprocket holes, as shown in Fig. 5, are evidences of too great tension. Film may pass through the projector without the notice of any difficulty, even though the tension is too strong, but if the film is closely examined afterwards the damage can easily be detected. After the damage has been done, nothing can undo it. The life of the film is greatly shortened and possibly the very next time it is projected will complete its destruction. No film is better than its sprocket holes. The operator can, by care, keep them in good shape if he will but do so. The tension shoes may never require adjustment, although they should always be kept free from accumulations at all times. If the tension is unusually strong at the tension shoes it will cause a drag on the film that will not only injure the holes but will cause unusual wear on the intermittent movement and on the intermittent sprocket teeth. At the very first sign of wear or undercutting on the sprocket teeth a new sprocket should be placed in the machine. Films are frequently injured during the time they are being threaded into the projector. In his hurry to change reels, the operator may not exercise sufficient care to see that the sprocket hole perforations properly mesh with the sprocket teeth. When the idlers are pushed into position the fragile film edges are broken or torn. This is one reason why the first few feet of many films are in poor condition. Watch the tension of the projector carefully. It is very important. Receipt, Storage and Shipment Immediately on receipt of the film program it is always desirable to rewind the program, inspect the films, and, if necessary, clean them. The exchange tries at all times to keep the films in the best possible condition,, but occasionally a reel will "slip through the hands" of an inspector who may be a bit careless. Film should always be kept in metal containers when not in the projector or in the process of inspection. All film will dry out and become brittle if exposed to the air for long periods. "Safety" or non-inflammable stock dries out very quickly. If the film is dry and brittle it may be made much more pliable by winding loosely and placing it in a humid atmosphere. A basement, far removed from fire or furnace, a cellar or cave, make excellent storage rooms. Sometimes a few blotters containing