Motography (1912)

February. 1912. MOTOGRAPHY 77 Every time a him is run through the machine the end is doubled over to tit tightly under the spring of the take-up reel. When the reel is rewound, the end is generally jerked off. or if it is not pulled off at this time it is later when attempting to force a doubled end between the magazine rollers. Thus the leader rapidly disappears. If the exchanges would see that at least three feet oi leader is on every reel before they send it out. they would confer a blessing on the operator and the audience as well. The patrons of the show are the ones who really suffer as there are many operators who never attach a leader no matter how short a title, but double the title under the reel clamp, and the audience gets but a fleeting glimpse of the title if the automatic fire shutter raises up in time. The tail piece at the end oi the him serve the same purpose. In many pictures the climax oi the entire film takes place in the last few feet of the reel and with part oi it gone much of the value of the film is lost. Also the end is usually so scratched up and full of rain that it is extremely difficult to see the picture at all. Manufacturers would do well to put several feet of film bearing their trademark at the end instead of a few feet of old film or nothing at all. The best film to use for leader is some that has been colored black or made opaque so that no light can get through it. If you have to make your own leader it is better to clean the old emulsion off than to run an old -eratched up picture. To remove the emulsion from old film, soak it in warm water for a few minutes until the emulsion is soft. Cold water will do if you cannot get warm water. Lay the film on a board with the emulsion side up and scrape <>ff the emulsion with a knife. Films should be kept in a cool, damp place in tin or metal boxes with tight fitting covers. All of the large cities require all films not in the machine to be placed in metal boxes. When in the operating room these boxes <hould be placed on the floor or as low down a possible. Old and dry film may be moistened and made pliable by giving it a glycerine bath. Make a solution of 30 to 40 parts of water, to one part of glycerine. Draw the film through it quickly and wind on a circular drum, being careful not to let any of the film overlap or not to touch the emulsion until it is dry. Idle drum should be revolved to dry the film. This must be done very carefully so as not to injure the film. When running a reel of film as often as twenty times a day it becomes somewhat stiff. To make it more pliable unroll the film in a tank similar to the old take-up tanks. In the bottom of the tank place a can with a mixture of water and glycerine in the above proportions. The top of the can may be covered with a heavy screen or a lid in which a number of hole have been punched. Leave the film in the tank for a few hours and you will be surpri-ed at the result-. Film jumping is caused by a number of thing-. As mentioned before many film are not properly perforated, causing them to jump up and down on the screen or to sway sideways. Films perforated with the rotary perforator show thi jumping more than those perforated with the reciprocating machine. But if every picture jumps up and down on the -crecn the intermittent movement needs adju-ting or probably the teeth on the intermittent -procket are worn. Of cour-e obi brittle film will always jump more or less because the Sprocket holes have shrunk. Mending the film is a very simple operation, but it is usually done so hurriedly that the patch ripen up sooner than if it was done right. The operator should have a pair of small scissors to cut the film, a sharp knife to -crape iA'\ the emulsion, and good film cement. Most film cement is put up in bottles having a small brush fitted into the cork. In this way the bottle is always kept tightly corked and the brush for applying the cement is always at hand and in condition to use. To patch the film so that no frame-up will be necessary when it passes through the machine cut off one picture on dividing line A-A, and the picture below at C-C one sprocket hole above the dividing line. Next moisten flap A-A, B-B, with water and scrape the emulsion off with the knife blade. l'>e sure to get it all off as the cement will not stick to the old emulsion. Xow scrape off back of C-C, D-D, to remove the grease or dirt on it. Apply the film cement liberally on flap A-A, B-B, where it has been scraped, and lay part C-C, D-D on top. being careful to see that the sprocket holes come directly over each other. The best way is to match the holes on one side holding it with the thumb and one finger ; then match the other sprocket holes and press the whole joint together and rub firmly with the thumb and finger. All this must be done very quickly as the cement dries rapidly, and when once dry. and the film does not stick it must be scraped off again and tried over. If a larger flap than one sprocket hole is used the film at the patch becomes too stiff and in going over the round sprockets the patch will open up. After completing the patch cement the edges down by running the brush over them, as that is always the first part of the patch to open up. Proper Way to Splice Film Pictures in Topeka Churches A number of the ministers of Topeka, Kan., have decided that moving pictures will form an educative feature in the development of the leading churches during the coming winter. Idle idea of the use of moving pictures in connection with the teaching of religious truths was introduced in Topeka by Rev. Robert Gordon, of the First Baptist church, when he announced that the moving picture would play an important part in the church services in November. Many of the Topeka minister have now taken up the moving picture idea and they will be shown in a number of the churches during the winter in com tion with the regular Sunday night -ervices. "] do not believe in letting the devil havi tOO man}' of the good thing-." wa the statement of one of the Topeka ministers in regard to the use oi moving pictUl