Movie Classic (Sep 1935-Feb 1936)

Chart Your Charm! [Continued from page 25] your blondeness, your darkness? Even if you have changed a life-long opinion, you are trading it in on a greater loveliness," Mr. Pogany assures you. "Now you are ready to "dip into the great palette of colors and choose from it the lines that will set you apart, emphasize your beauty, give you charm. "TN RELATION to you, all colors -* have only two variations. They either contrast with your complexion, or they harmonize with it. You may use either group of shades without fear, but you will get very different results from each. Dolores Del Rio is such a definite color type that she makes an ideal model. She has dark eyes and hair with a golden skin. Her general coloring is in the warm browns. The contrast to warm brown lies in the greenish tones. "Supposing Dolores wishes to appear very sweet and unsophisticated. She can do no better than wear a quiet shade of green with a silvery cast to it. However, should she wish to be vivid and startling, she gains the best effect by turning to the brilliant, gorgeous hues of emerald and jade. Scarlet would be good, combined with metallic gold. "Follow her into the harmonizing colors, and what effects do we find? In dark, dull shades of brown and in black, she is nunlike and severe. In lighter tans and fawns, she is quiet and demure. Glinting copper-browns and lustrous blacks give her elegance. "Bette Davis is as blonde as Dolores is dark. In contrast to her white skin, warm ivory makes her appear very sweet and girlish. Emerald green is as much a contrast to Bette as to Dolores — it would make her very striking. To be demure, Betty would choose a soft, pale yellow; to be nunlike, she would select darker tones of beige and brown ; and she would be distinctive in black. ""yOU SEE, blondes and brunettes ■*■ must not dress in contrast to each other, necessarily. They must dress in contrast to their individual skin coloring, and frequently that contrast will be the same for both of them. The same is true of the harmonizing colors. "Don't believe it when they tell you, 'Blondes cannot wear this color and brunettes cannot wear that color.' It all depends upon the shade of the color in question. There are only two 'cannots.' Girls with olive skin should avoid black. It makes «them sallow. Girls like Bette Davis, with white skin, should avoid white. It makes them too pale. Otherwise black and white go well on everybody. "There are warm and cool shades to every color. If your skin is cool — that is, if it is white, white-and-pink, or olive — choose the warmer tones of your selected colors. If your skin is warm and glowing — if it is creamy, rosy, or golden — choose the cooler shades. Violet, for example, is warm. Purple, because of its greater percentage of blue, When chorus girls go in for crocheting — well, crocheting is news. And it is coming back into vogue in a big way, as knitting has. Between scenes of Top Hat, chorine Kathryn Barnes makes her hands dance with hook and yarn is cool. Turquoise, which has a touch of green, is a cool blue. Powder blue is warm. There are cool yellows, such as lemon and pale gold. There are warm greens with a decided golden cast. Gray, which is considered a standard cool color, may be warm and pearly. "Redhaired girls, who usually feel badly because of the limitations put upon their color scope, are really the easiest to dress. Katharine Hepburn and Billie Burke are two extremes of redheadedness. Katharine is dark with greenish eyes, Billie is bright with bluer eyes — yet either of them can wear almost any color and be lovely in it. "Redheads can be very alluring in creamy pinks, peach, and' tea rose, in spite of the accepted taboo upon these colors. Try different shades of pink against your skin, you ladies with the Cleopatra tresses, the next time you are in the silk section of your favorite shop. Swath the fabrics around you, get the color that is just right for you, and select your dresses accordingly. Common sense will tell you to avoid wishywashy colors that will be faded by your own coloring. "The hardest type to dress is the dark-eyed blonde," Mr. Pogany continues. "Joan Blondell approximates this type. Binnie Barnes is another browneyed girl with light, bright hair. This combination happens very rarely. Darkeyed girls who lighten their hair find it extremely difficult to bring out their best points. If they dress to beautify their skin, their hair is wrong. If they emphasize the gold of their hair, their skin looks muddy. The best advice is to play up the skin tones, and let the hair take care of itself. "HPHE coming of color to the screen A threatens none of the stars," is the assurance of this man who knows. "They will be colorfully gowned to high-light the loveliness of their own colorings and more than ever will they be able to show other girls just how to get the most out of this business of beauty. "Color is a fascinating thing. It is easy to check up on yourself and discover whether or not you are being as beautiful as you can be. The three things every woman must have in order to be charming are gained through color. Grace, so necessary to a girl, comes through a harmonious linking of the girl and her dress. Poise is achieved by elegance. Animation comes with vivid, striking clothes. "After you have gowned yourself with loveliness and charm, watch your lighting effects. Cool lights of green or blue are dangerous. They will make you appear ghastly. Very warm lights will steal the color from your lips and cheeks. Soft, light pinks are the most becoming, and lavender, too, is good if it is warm. "Now I have told you my color charm secrets," says the famous Willy Pogany in conclusion, "and if you take my friendly tips, each of you can become 'A Portrait of a Lovely Lady.' " 58