Movie Classic (Sep 1936-Feb 1937)

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When we got near enough, about fifty natives swam out to greet us, and we threw them coins and they dove for them ; came up with the coins in their mouths, grinning and shouting and hallooing. There were a lot of little boats that came out too. From the dock you could hear the strains of Hawaiian music — they had a whole orchestra there — and the cries of the lei sellers. The dock was jammed with people ... it seems all the natives always turn out for every landing. There were some official singers, too . . . Hawaiian men and women in white . . . fat, most of them . . . with the most beautiful voices. Then we disembarked, (how'm I doin' ; that's real travel parlance ! ) and there were a lot of friends to meet us, and all of them had leis over their arms for Lily. The presentation of a lei is quite a ceremony. No one would think of just sending flowers by messenger ; that would be an insult. If you can't bring the flowers yourself then you send them with a close friend, and the friend puts the lei around the girl's neck and says, "This is from so-and-so. When anyone presents the lei himself, he always presents it with a kiss. I soon discovered that whether the girl is on her honeymoon or not makes no difference. Oh, well, they say it's the custom ! At last ! I found out what a Malahcne is . . . it's the Hawaiian word for a sort of a tenderfoot, a person who has come from the Mainland, (they always speak of the United States as the mainland) to the islands for the first time. That makes me one, and I must say I'm relieved. Saturday Went dancing last night at the Royal Hawaiian, and that is something I can't describe in justice. The dance floor is outside, under the sky and stars, and the orchestra is outlined against the ocean. The moon comes up behind them, and you can hear the lapping of the waves sort of mixed in with the music, and is it something ! Henry Owens orchestra, with Rae Kinney singing, than which there is no better. He's coming to the Cocoanut Grove soon. A friend of mine I haven't seen for a year is here playing with them. They played a piece, Dancing Under the Stars, written by Owens' that's sure to be a hit in America this winter. All the girls wore leis, some of them of gardenias, and some of pekaki, which (I found out ! ) are very expensive. But Lily was pleased. The dance floor was so full of the fragrance of them that you almost got dizzy. Lily says that the hotel cleaner told her that even after you clean a dress that you've worn pekaki with, it still retains their fragrance! And liquid sunshine at night — that's a funny one. I wouldn't have believed it if I hadn't experienced it. It rains at some time of the day almost every day in Honolulu, but it's such a light rain that it doesn't even get you wet, and nobody pays any attention to it. That's why they call it liquid sunshine. Well, last night it "liquid-sunshined," at night, while we were dancing. Dancing in the rain. The most glorious feeling you can imagine ! And afterwards we went swimming . . . moonlight swimming on the beach of Waikiki ! It was so warm we were com fortable even sitting around in our wet suits afterward. Today we spent most of the day on the beach and in the water. When you swim out far it's so clear you can look down and see fish. Tried a little surf riding, but is that an art — and don't let anyone tell you differently ! Sunday The famous drive around the island! Took most of the day, but it was worth it. Have never seen so much in one day in all my life. Miles of sugar fields, and pineapple groves. We wanted to pick some pineapples but our driver said there was a forty dollars' fine. We saw the Mormon Temple, (first time I knew there were Mormons on the islands) Schofield Barracks, (the army post) and Pearl Harbor, the naval station . . . one of the biggest in the world; you could put the whole United _ States navy in it. One of the few places in the world where they have a drv dock for battleships. The size of it ! You stand at the top of it and look down and you think you're on the palai. That's another place we saw ... the place where King Kamahameha pushed a whole army over. They call it palai, because that's the word for cliff or mountain, I believe. It overlooks the sea for miles and miles and the wind speeps over it at such a speed that you can actually lean against it with all your might and still not move. The rush of the wind and the beauty of the waves — the two leave you speechless. Monday Lily went shopping today and was surprised to find that Honolulu is such a city. Trolley cars, department stores, everything. Had some poi today . . . looks and tastes like lavender wall paper paste. I'll take steak and french fries. That's the Beaver Dam in me, I suppose . . . nothing fancy. Also bought some Hawaiian records — Aloha Sweetheart, Hawaiian Paradise, Pretty Red Hibiscus . . . this music gets in your blood. Tuesday On shipboard. Aloha, aloha, and do we feel blue, even if we are at the Captain's table. Lily almost cried when we passed Diamond Head, coming out of the harbor. Our friends had gone up there to flash mirrors at us, to say goodbye. You can see the flash of the mirrors until the curve of the horizon takes it away. When you pass Diamond Head you're supposed to throw a lei overboard if you're ever coming back . . ." That seemed to be the end of it all. Fred bestirred himself, trying not to look mournful. 'Well," I wanted to know. "Did you toss one over ?" He looked at me, askance. "You bet we did. Of course we're going back to that paradise some day soon. I'm not a Malaheuc anymore either." He paused. 'You know," he said, "you don't realize how crazy and goofy Hollywood is until you get away from it." Suddenly, like Dante's disciple, Gracie Allen was standing there before us. Arms akimbo, eyes flashing, she said loudly : "Well, must I throw you out, or will you leave under force?" "See," said Fred, "that's what I mean, exactly !" 62 Movie Classic for October, 1936