Movie Makers (Jan-Dec 1932)

436 To fit every background MALCOLM G. JACKSON, ACL How to build your own title device for universal use A GREAT deal has been written about titles in the past and doubtless a great deal i will be written in the future, for titles are necessary in almost every amateur motion picture. Although making one's own titles is not a task, any device that makes automatic the proper placing of the camera, the arrangement of the lights and the set up of the title board would be a useful one. Building a title stand that includes these advantages is not so difficult as it might appear, for the lumber and hardware supplies may be found in any city or village and but a few simple tools are needed. The writer has designed an easily constructed title stand that includes all of the normal advantages of a title making device and is adaptable to title card sizes ranging from three and a half by four and a half inches up to and including an area of eleven by fourteen inches. This range affords a wide selection of title sizes including Movie Makers backgrounds. It makes possible the use of backgrounds from a variety of sources, among them, photographs, movie frame enlargements, magazine illustrations and postcards. A list of materials needed will be of help at this point. One length of three quarter inch plywood, three inches by forty five inches, and one length, three inches by eighteen inches, a board of half inch plywood, twelve by fifteen inches, and one block of white pine, four inches long by one and one half inches square, may be purchased at a lumber mill or yard. Two, three inch lengths of three quarter inch brass or aluminum angle, seven flat head stove bolts, two and one half by one quarter inches, and a half dozen small wood screws may be obtained at a hardware store. Two tall coffee tins and two porcelain base lamp sockets furnish the lighting equipment. We now have the parts which are lettered in the diagram on page 450. After squaring and sanding them they are ready to assemble. Take the four inch block of pine "C" and drill a quarter inch hole through the center of one of the long sides. This block is then fastened flush with the bottom and in the center of the board "B" with two stove bolts. All flat head bolts should be countersunk so that they are flush. The quarter inch hole drilled in the center should be parallel to the twelve inch length of the board. The two angles "D-D" are fastened with wood screws to the bottom of "B" and "C" with their long sides at right angles to the twelve inch side of the title board "B". The distance between these angles should be such that they will form a sliding, friction fit with the base "A". Place the board "B" upright on the base "A" so that it will slide along its length. Bring the block "C" flush with the end of the base. With it in this position place a stove bolt in the hole and give it a tap with a hammer. It will leave a mark on the base "A". With the board "B" remaining in this position, measure from the front surface thirty six inches along the base "A". Draw a line across at this point. This establishes the line above which the lens will be placed. Now slide the board "B" along the base until the surface of the board toward the camera is twenty eight inches from the line marked for the lens. When in this position mark with a bolt as previously described. Repeat this operation for the following distances from the lens; twenty four, eighteen and twelve inches. Remove the board "B" and drill where marked on the base. This will give five standard distances at which the board may be used. A stove bolt is used to bolt the board to the base at any one of these points. If metal angle lengths are not available for the guides, wood blocks may be substituted as shown on page 451 in the photograph of an adaptation of this title board. A great help in making the entire assembly true and square will be found in a carpenter's steel square, with which the alignment should be tested constantly. This will also be found useful in aligning the camera. Next comes the assembly of lamps. Cut the coffee can, as shown in the illustration at "E", removing about one quarter of the material. This will prevent light from straying into the lens. Take the eighteen by three inch block of wood and cut a quarter inch slot in the center of each end. This slot should be about six inches in length and will provide a means of moving the lamps to adjust the distance from the center of the base. The porcelain sockets are each mounted on a square or circular piece of wood and a stove bolt passes through the center of this which slides in the slots. In the center of the eighteen inch block, drill a hole and by means of another bolt fasten it to the base "A". Wiring for the lights may be arranged with switches or in any manner the maker wishes. Last, but not least, comes the mount for the camera. Although dimensions will vary with the different makes of cameras, two points must be the same. The lens must be thirty six inches from the title board at its farthest point [Continued on page 450] The art title background on the facing page may be used on the title board Photograph from Ewing Galloway Title by Ralph R. Edo, ACL