Movie Makers (Jan-Dec 1953)

69 BULK FILM IN A BOX The author of "A Suitcase Editor" turns his talents to the needs of the bulk-film enthusiast HERBERT H. REECH, ACL THAT man who made up the maxim that there's no accounting for tastes sure knew his stuff. For example . . . Last October it was my pleasure to present in this place an article on assembling a suitcase editor. And, after the magazine editor got through with it, I, at least, thought it was pretty good. But not so "Constant Reader." He had written, the editor reported, that, quote: / sure don't know why anyone wants to edit in a suitcase! Unquote. Okay; I can take it. For the same piece had prompted a filming friend of mine to say: "Why not design a similar unit for fellows like me who handle bulk film?" And so I did. And so here it is, expressly aimed at the bulkfilm enthusiast, a practitioner who is generally regarded as the poor relation of our hallowed hobby. To begin with, I began with the same kind of case and double-jointed aluminum arms that were described in detail in my October article, A Suitcase Editor. (There is no point in restating all of those details here. If you haven't an October issue on hand, send two bits to ACL and they'll fix you up.) Actually, the case for this bulkfilm unit was one I had left over from my earlier enterprise, and it was dimensioned in a similar size — 14 by 14 inches for the detachable cover, 8 inches for the depth of the case itself. Probably, however, a depth of 10 or 12 inches would be better. So, if you're starting from scratch, Fd suggest that size. Very well . . . The first thing you will need in handling bulk film is a suitable safelight. As you will see in Fig. 1, this is housed in the case itself. It is comprised simply enough of a dime-store socket, an acceptable length of power cord and the bulb itself — red or green, depending on the characteristics of the emulsion you're working with. In attaching the socket to the inside of the wooden case, I urge you to avoid (as I did) the use of ordinary wood screws. The widely used and ornamental Phillipshead machine screws make a better looking job. Pass them through the board from the outside and fasten them snugly with nuts on the inside. The next thing you will need in bulk film operations is, obviously, a bulk film winder. The set illustrated in Fig. 1 will cost you $2.95 at Superior Bulk Film Company, 105 South Wells Street, Chicago. It consists of a bulk film holder (as seen on the left arm), a metal base and a rewind. The holder is easily attached to the metal arm by drilling and tapping two % inch holes for suitable machine screws. The rewind is attached to the right arm in a like manner (as was fully described in October), and the splicer and cement bottle are positioned on the board with wood screws. The raised part seen in the center of the baseboard in Fig. 2 is a block of wood, 2 by 4 by about 6 inches FIG. 1: Ready to roll, with winders left and right, safe light in center, bulk film editor stands above. long. For neatness it has been covered with the same Aerotweed material that covers the case; for sturdiness it is attached to the baseboard with long wood screws. This is really the heart of the outfit, for on it are mounted the film slitter and the frame counter. The slitter (see Fig. 2) also was obtained from Superior B. F., this unit at $1.50. I drilled a hole through it, attached two small angle brackets and inserted a machine screw through the unit to hold it rigid. It is attached to the block with wood screws driven through the angle irons. The frame counter can be seen dead center in Fig. 2. Ii is a three-digit, revolution type (non-reset), and can be purchased for around $2 from Stark's, in Chicago, or the T & T Tool Company, in Tulsa, Okla. The sprocket is a ten-tooth 16mm. model and, together with the two rollers and their shafts, comes to around $2.35 at the Triple-S Sales Company, in Mission, Kans. To mount these units, secure a suitable length of 3/16 inch aluminum stock, such as has been used in fashioning the double-jointed arms. After bending it at right angles in a vise, drill the vertical part to hold the two roller shafts. The counter is fastened to the base section by four tiny machine or self-tapping screws. When marking out the mounting holes for the counter, make sure that the sprocket and rollers are exactly aligned by testing with a strip of old 16mm. or double 8mm. footage. There must be enough tension exerted by the rollers on the film to hold it taut on the sprocket. [Continued on page 81] FIG. 2: Disassembled, the component parts of bulk film editor are on display. The frame counter is centered, slitter at right.