Movie Makers (Jan-Dec 1953)

MOVIE MAKERS 299 The elements of editing With proper tools, and these basic methods, editing is easy MAURICE W. PRATHER Yes, the summer vacations are long since over, your films are back from processing, and, besides looking at them yourself, you are now getting eager to screen them for your friends. But when you do, what will these friends see? A bunch of short, unorganized reels, full of unrelated scenes? Or will they see a single, integrated movie with smooth-flowing continuity? If inexperience at editing is holding you up, then this article is for you. For editing is really easy; it takes little time, and it greatly increases the scope of your hobby. The tools required are few and simple. A good splicer is the first requirement. A pair of scissors, a pair of film rewinds, a good grade of film cement, a soft cloth and a batch of unedited film make up the kit. With these tools, I have found the following procedures simple and efficient. When I receive my film from the laboratory, I project each roll on a projector that is as clean is it is possible to get the machine. Before projecting each roll I number it or note the number that is already on it. Then during projection I make a note of each scene on the roll in the order in which it appears on the screen. I also make a note of the type of scene; that is, whether it is a long shot, a medium shot or a closeup. A short description of the scene and a note as to whether it is photographically okay also are included on the sheet of paper. This may seem like a lot to do in a dark projection room; but it is not as difficult as it appears. For in making these notes it is only necessary to use letters such as MS for medium shot. CU for closeup, OK or NG to signify good or bad photography. Even the scene descriptions can be very short. Thus, one entire line might go something like this: Reel 6, scene 4. LS Lake Tobe, from Skyline Drive. OK. After having viewed all of my film. I take the notes I've just made and sit down to study them carefully. Going through the notes, I re-list on fresh paper each scene in the order I would like it to appear in the final film. In its finished form this list might look something like this. 13. LS Lake Tobe from Skyline Drive. 2/8 14. MS Lake Tobe from hotel. 5/1 15. CU Fishing boats on the lake. 4/7 16. CU Fisherman landing fish. 3/5 17. ECU Fish head. 3/7 ■Having the script in this simple and efficient form, I'm ready to commence the actual job of editing. Always be sure that your splicer is clean and free of any dirt or cement particles. It is a good idea to make some test splices to make sure the splicer is operating properly and is in correct adjustment. With tlie splicer cleaned, I like to start my reels with the white or cream colored leader that comes with the film from the laboratory. I start off with a length about 3 feet long, which is ideal for threading the projector. This is also a good place to identify and name the type of film on the reel, such as: Lake Tjbe, 1949, 400 feet silent color. Next, I insert a length of black leader about 20 to 24 inches long. This leader helps the audience become accustomed to the darkness. Cutting in the lead titles is the next thing done. Caution should be used in adding the titles to be sure they are not put in upside down or backwards. You may think you couldn't do anything that silly. But I have seen it happen to a professional film editor, and he didn't discover his mistake until the film was in the printer. After the titles are cut in, I'm ready to start the actual editing. I find the reel with the first scene on it, then find the proper scene on that reel and proceed to cut it out. After it has been taken out, be sure to tape the two loose ends together so the film does not get mixed up. (Kum-Kleens, in the 3/8 inch size, are excellent for this purpose, since no adhesive from them adheres to the film. They are a product of the Avery Adhesive Label Company. Monrovia, Calif. — Ed.) This scene is then spliced onto the titles, after being sure that any blank frames at the beginning or end of the scene are removed. At this time also any markedly excessive footage should be cut out of the scene — although your final cutting for pace will come later. The rest of the scenes you want in your movie are added in the same manner, using the same care which you used on the first one. It will take much less time than you ever imagined to complete the job. When you reach the end be sure to add an end title to round off the movie. This will inform your audience that the film is concluded. Many amateurs overlook this final touch, although it does much to give your film that professional effect. I then like to attach another short length of black leader so the operator can shut off the lamp before it glares on the empty screen. These few simple procedures will help you produce finished and professional looking films. COMPCO CUP No more groping for hidden slots! No more slipping of film on the take-up! The Compco Reel, with its exclusive, patented "Compco Clip" makes threading fast and foolproof, even in the dark! The leader slips smoothly into the "Compco Clip" . . . stays put for winding . . . yet slides out after unreeling! In all 8 mm and 16 mm sizes. Just ask your dealer for "the reel with the Compco Clip!" ^OmilCO CORPORATION 2251 W. Si. Paul Ave Chicago 47 Manufacturers of line photographic equipment Since 193? THE RALPH R.ENO CORP. 626 W. 165 ST. • NEW YORK Send your film for free crilicism or estimate RECORDS MOOD MUSIC Background SOUND Last Word in Sound Effects-^ Send For Free Catalogue THOMAS J. VALENTINO, Inc. Dept. MM ISO West 46th Street. New York 36. N. Y. KODACHROME DUPLICATES 8mm. or 16mm. lie per foot Mail Orders accepted HOLLYWOOD 16mm INDUSTRIES, INC. 1453 N. Vine Street Hollywood 28. 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