Movie Makers (Jun-Dec 1928)

While he bought chocolate inside at the buffet, the director regaled us with the wonders of the Jungfrau Railway, on which we were at last about to begin our final ascent. We gathered around to listen, amused at the evident interest of the guard. There were few details that Baedeker had failed to impart to the director; if he had had a megaphone and a cigar stump to chew on, it would have been perfect. The railroad is a triumph of modern engineering, built between 1896 and 1912 from the plans of a Swiss engineer at a cost of twelve million francs. It has the unique right of making the average tourist feel like a mountaineer because it ascends up into the heart of the peaks. The tunnels are cut through hard rock ( limestone and gneiss), so there is no necessity of masonry lining. It is a rack-and-ninion system and the locomotives are 300 horse power. When another train appeared and we were off at last the train seemed like an animate object, crawling up the rock and pausing for a breathing space at several stations, when we would get out for a view from a platform built in the rock. At Eigerwand we looked down upon the Lake of Thun, with Interlaken nestling at one end. At Eismeer, a thousand feet higher, we reveled in wonderful views of the surrounding glaciers, now fully understanding why we were cold hidden away in the cavernous rock. The carriages were supposed to be heated by electricity, but the air was so cold that though inside the car the temperature was at only 50 degrees it seemed positively warm. Up, up, up we went, sinking farther in our warm woolens, until finally we arrived at Jungfraujoch — 11,340 feet, only 2,330 feet before the very summit — the climb done in a leisurely and comfortable way. Jungfraujoch is situated in the glacier-covered saddle between the Monch and the Jungfrau, where it is easy to ascend to the summit. We went first to see the magnificent view of Aletsch glacier, a wooden gallery leading to the level neve of the Jungfraujoch. At the upper level of the station we found a comfortable Berghaus Jungfraujoch, Europe's highest hotel, with several dining rooms and from expensive table d'hote to a place where you can buy beer and coffee and eat what you bring in your own knapsack. We stopped in a little anteroom, finished, like the rest of the place, in pine, and for 1 franc 50 exchanged our shoes for stout mountain boots A FRAME OF LIVING ROCK Jungfrau Filmed from an Arch in the Railroad Tunnel. with iron nails. Armed with ski poles we started out on the snowbank. After adjusting my amber glasses I took several pictures, and for the first time in hours I began to feel warm. Suddenly the sun's rays penetrated with such intensity that I felt stifled. Quickly I unbuttoned my slicker and sweaters. For a moment I felt a bit dizzy, and I was frantic with fear that I should succumb to mountain illness, but I soon realized that it was only the heat and rarity of the atmosphere. Standing still for a few minutes, I completely revived and could see the ineffable beauty of the gloriously awful scene. Saddening, somehow— where no soft strains of a violin playing Grieg are needed to make one register emotion. Someone called. Ahead of me, on the path, I saw the "hero"! "We're ready to make a big scene, and are waiting on you," he said. I went along, slowly, realizing that my heart would pound again if I went up the hill with my former speed. Artificial rain was not needed on this lot, for a dense mist was enveloping the jagged, rocky mountains ahead. I quickly buttoned my coat, for now I was as cold as I had been hot a moment before. When I reached the pinnacle I saw everyone laughing heartily, for we were ready for a shot {Continued on page 418) 377