Movie Makers (Jun-Dec 1928)

irron. ! i i ^*mm 15 WATT FtOUND FROSTF-D '<F \ MAZDA f.g^^^wirorAWJiFw^Tiff^^inHyw^i'^y TABLE Of? TRIP N ^DJU^TaBLET. BftlDGfc LAMP DIAGRAM II Method of Using Cine Kodak as Printer ative will be covered with waterspots and ruined. Wind the film as loosely as possible since it shrinks considerably while drying. By placing the drying rack between two chairs and putting a small electric fan on the floor the rack will automatically revolve, insuring even and rapid drying of your negative. When the film is bone-dry you are ready for printing. I have found the Model B. CineKodak equipped with /-1.9 lens makes an excellent printer. It has a claw movement such as is found only in the most expensive professional printers and the negative and positive are always in accurate registration which eliminates any "climbing" of frames during projection. No doubt it is possible to print with all 16 mm. cameras and with cameras equipped with slower lenses than /1.9 but my experience has been limited to the Cine-Kodak model mentioned above. Winding the film for printing is the most important step in the process. The details in Diagram I must be followed exactly with the Model B Cine-Kodak or you will find yourself almost inextricably confused. Use a camera film spool — do not attempt to use an ordinary tin film spool on which processed film is customarily returned from the laboratory. Two things are important. First. The negative film on spool I must be reeled emulsion side out and wound as on the take up spool. In other words, the film is wound the same as though it had been projected and not rewound. (If this is not done your pictures will project upside down). Second. The emulsion side of the negative must be in contact with the emulsion side of the positive when wound on spool II. When the spool is full break off your negative and positive and load your camera in the usual manner, threading both films through and taking care that they are firmly immeshed in the sprocket wheel. Run the camera for a few seconds to be sure that it is operating smoothly. The camera may now be taken out of the darkroom. For a printing light I use a 15Watt round frosted Mazda lamp. Reference to Diagram II will show you the method of printing which is simplicity itself. The electric bulb may be supported by any method, but a bridge lamp is rigid and readily adjustable and therefore recommended. The bulb should be about a half inch from the end of the lens hood of the camera. Center the lens and the lamp carefully; then press down the exposure lever and your film runs through the camera printing merrily. Rewind the camera as often as necessary until your entire length of film is run off. It is possible to print but fifty feet at a time in the camera. If you wish, it is a convenience to wind several films for printing at the same time; place them in light-proof magazines or tin film boxes and then print them one at a time replacing them in the boxes until you are ready for developing. The length of the film you develop at one time will be limited only by the capacity of your tank — the fifty foot lengths being fastened together by ordinary paper clips. Diagram III shows the method of winding the printed film on the reel for development. Let the negative fall into a basket. The Number 16 formula is an excellent one for developing the positive. Make several test strips before you develop the whole reel and determine the time required to give you the quality of print which pleases you. My experience has been that the developing time required for interiors is from 3 to 5 minutes at a temperature of 65°. By using a 25Watt electric bulb for printing a "two-minute" film can be obtained. Rinse, fix and wash in the usual manner, squeegeeing the film as you did with the negative while reeling it on the rack. You will find that the positive dries much faster than the negative but to avoid scratches do not attempt to project your film until it has hardened. For further details as to the developing and printing of motion picture films, reference may be made to "Developing Motion Picture Films by the Tank Method," Crabtree, Eastman Kodak Company (gratis) ; "Handbook of Motion Picture Photography," McKay ($3.00); "Motion Picture Photography," Gregory ($6.00). DIAGRAM III Winding Printed Film in Developing Reel. 577