Moving Picture World (Jan-Mar 1912)

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THE MOVING PICTURE WORLD 35 ment, or, in other words, not parallel with camshaft 676 (P 2) the sprocket teeth of the end of the sprocket which is lowest will do most of the work of pulling down the film ; also other evils will result. It is therefore essential that the two shafts named be kept exactly parallel. This is accomplished by adjusting bushings 671 (P i) and 670 (P 2). With an inside caliper used either from top of sides of sprocket or directly between the two shafts at sides of sprocket, you can tell when you have it exactly right. To turn these bushings first loosen screws 723 (Pi) and 743 (P l). In the circumference of the left-hand bushing will be found two pin-holes in which to insert a small, steel punch or a steel wire % inch in diameter to turn the bushing. In the end of the right-hand bushing is a screw-driver slot for the same purpose. No. 10. — Adjusting Intermittent Movement to Eliminate Lost Motion. The intermittent sprocket should have just a little circumferential play, but not much. As this play increases from wear of the parts it should be taken up. To accomplish this, loosen screws 743 (Pi) and 723 (Pi) and slightly turn bushings 670 (P 2) and 671 (P i) in such manner that they revolve clockwise as viewed from the flywheel side of machine. (See instruction No. 9 for method of turning them.) Turn both bushings the same amount. It is best to use caliper (see instruction No. 9) to be certain you keep shaft parallel with camshaft. Do not turn bushings enough to cause intermittent movement to bind. If after tightening screws 743 and 723 there is binding, loosen them and slack off on the bushings just a little. Binding caused by tightening these screws is due to some slight play bushings may have in their seats. No. II. — Setting Sprocket Idler Rollers. Idler rollers 609 and 660 {P 2) and 657 (Pi) should be kept set away from their respective sprockets by about twice the thickness of a film. This is an absolute necessity and failure to attend to it will cause loss of film loops if there is any tendency in that direction. Idler 609 (P 2) is adjusted in relation to its sprocket by a small screw just behind the handle on which is the arrow-head from 612 (P 2). Screw 719 (P 2) adjusts intermittent sprocket roller and screw 724 (P 2) adjusts sprocket of lower roller. In adjusting lower sprocket roller, if you have the type of bracket carrying two rollers, set the front, or top roller, allowing lower, or back one to come to where it will, provided it does not come closer to the sprocket than twice the thickness of a film. After adjusting rollers always set lock-nuts of adjustment screws up tight. Remember that lack of care in adjusting these rollers is likely to cause trouble through losing upper or lower loops. No. 12. — Worn Aperture Plate Tracks. When tracks of aperature plate 687 (P 2) become worn, get a new one. It does not pay to use a worn aperture plate. It causes buckling of the film which throws film in and out of focus on the screen. A new aperture plate should be kept in stock. No. 13. — End Play in Sprocket Idler Rollers. Keep collars 611 (P 2) and 726 (P i) set up snugly against the rollers so that the latter have no end play. Failure to do so may cause damage to sprocket teeth. Don't set them tight enough to bind the rollers, however. Keep rollers set so that grooves are central with teeth. To accomplish this the shaft carrying them may be shifted endwise by loosening screw holding same. It is essential that idler rollers of all sprockets turn freely. If a roller sticks investigate and remove the cause at once. No. 14. — Oil for Intermittent Oil Casing. ■ Use a high grade of machine oil in intermittent oil casing and keep same filled to top of oil-cup at all times. This latter applies only to those having oil-cup of type illustrated 673 (P 4). Do not use a thin oil in casing. The Nicholas Power Company will supply suitable oil for casing at a reasonable price. I would strongly advise its use, though a high grade moderately heavy machine oil will produce satisfactory results. No. 15. — Fire Shutter Counterweight. Keep fire shutter countervyeight set as shown at 629 (P 2). No. 16. — Gate-Latch Adjustment. Gate latch-screw 722 (P 2) should be kept set just so as to hold contact screws, on inside of gate, snugly against face of machine. No. 17. — Aligning Gate with Aperture. If at any time aperture in gate should, from accident or other cause, get out of line with aperture — not central, sidewise, with aperture — the gate may be moved to the left by striking sharply alternately on its upper and lower front edge with a light hammer. It may be moved the other way by tapping on round part of gate hinge, using a brass punch, thus bending hinge slightly. After doing this it may be necessary to line up idlers 691 (P 2) with top of aperture plate. They should be set equi-distant from its edges. No. 18. — End Motion in Intermittent Sprocket. There should be no end motion at all in intermittent sprocket 667 (P 2). End motion may be readily eliminated by loosening screw in collar against end of bushing 670 (P 2). Holding screw-driver in screw-slot, with another screw-driver, or other convenient tool, pry gently against rim of sprocket and collar, forcing sprocket to the right and collar to the left against bushing. While holding the collar over thus, tighten the screw in same. Turn machine very slowly and if the intermittent movement binds, you have the collar too tight. Stick end of screwdriver through one of the holes in flywheel and against end of intermittent shaft. With hammer tap very lightly. Try machine and do it again, if necessary, trying sprocket each time to be sure you have not loosened it too much. This collar should be just as tight against the bushing as it can be without binding. Side motion in intermittent sprocket is very likely to produce side motion in picture on the screen. No. 19. — Lubricating Gears. Operators usually have tlieir own individual ideas as to the best gear lubricant. There are several. Engine valve-oil is excellent. Automobile grease is used successfully. Ground mica and tallow make a very effective compound. A light oil is not suitable for gears. If grease or oil is used the gears should occasionally be washed out thoroughly, say twice per week. This may readily be done without removing head from table by holding a shallow dish (a pan about 2x8 inches by i or 2 inches deep is best), under the gears while you turn the crank slowly at the same time flooding the gears with kerosene, benzine or gasoline from an ordinary oil can, such as is used to oil the machine. If preferred the mechanism may be removed from the table and, after removing lenses, immersed in gasoline, the crank being given a few turns while the mechanism is in the bath. This washes out both gears and bearings. Washing out gears is of much importance since dust mixes with the oil and forms a grinding paste which wears the metal rapidly. No. 20. — Oil. Many and diverse are the ideas concerning the best lubricant for motion picture mechanisms. Aside from the oil-casing, instruction for which has already been given (see instruction No. 14) and the gears (see instruction No. 19), two courses are open for lubrication of bearings, viz. : a light oil with frequent lubrication, or a heavier oil used less frequently. Things may be said for both. The more frequent application of the lighter oil naturally keeps the bearings washed out better. It has. however, greater tendency to run off, smear around and get all over the machine and on the film. The heavier oil naturally "stays put" better, but does not keep the bearings so clean. Never use more than one drop of oil on any bearing. Anything more is waste, and worse than useless. One drop is ample for all purposes of lubrication. Any surplus over this will run off, making a dirty mess and probably getting on the film. The Nicholas Power Company is prepared to furnish an oil suitable for use on their machines, I strongly recommend that you procure same. No. 21. — Emulsion Deposit on Tension Springs. The emulsion of 'first run" films is usually quite soft and has a decided tendency to deposit on tension shoes 624 (P 2). This is common to all machines and is unavoidable. Excess of film cement used in making patches also has tendency to deposit as it is very soft. The trouble may be lessened, when using first run film, by carrying as light a tension as possible and smearing the shoes with tallow from an ordinary tallow candle, one of which shuuUi be kept for tlie purpose, before each run. Never, under any circumstances, use a screwdriver, knife blade or other steel tool to remove emulsion from tension shoe's. If you do you will be likely to scratch the polished surface, thus making matters very much worse. Use a silver coin, a small piece of wood or, better still, a wet cloth, or a cloth dampened with kerosene. Water instantly softens the deposit. In running first run film watch this matter very closely and clean the shoes after each run, rubbing on a little grease, tallow preferably. Otherwise you will seriously injure the film, besides wearing the machine unduly. Avoid using more cement than is necessary in making patches. No. 22. — Keep Screws Tight. See to it that screws 728 and 745 (P 7) are kept set up tight. If these screws work loose it allows toggle gear 678 (P 7) which fits on 742 (P 7) to wobble. This is injurious and very likely to cause a bad grind in the gears, as well as other troubles. No. 23. — Keep Studs Tight. See to it that studs 686 (P 3 and 7) do not work loose. Should these studs, or the slots in horizontal bar 683 (P3 and 7), become worn so that there is play between studs and slots, do not attempt to close up slot with a hammer. The bar is die-cast and you will merely succeed in breaking it. Order a new bar and studs. No. 24. — Adjustment for Connecting Link. Connecting link 682 (P 3 and 7) is beveled on its sides. It is held on its right side by a small, loose casting 685 (P 3 and 7).